{"id":220,"date":"2019-05-21T10:50:39","date_gmt":"2019-05-21T10:50:39","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/?post_type=chapter&#038;p=220"},"modified":"2019-05-21T12:33:53","modified_gmt":"2019-05-21T12:33:53","slug":"prototype-development-womens-kameez","status":"publish","type":"chapter","link":"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/chapter\/prototype-development-womens-kameez\/","title":{"rendered":"Prototype Development: Women\u2019s Kameez"},"content":{"raw":"<div><span style=\"float: right\"><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/kY5py5G5tXw\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img src=\"http:\/\/epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/11\/download.png\" alt=\"epgp books\" width=\"75px\" height=\"75px;\" \/><\/a>\r\n<\/span><\/div>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<ol>\r\n \t<li><strong> INTRODUCTION<\/strong><\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">A simple and single piece Kameez is a tunic worn as upper garment along with salwar, chudidar, pants or jeggings. The length, fabric and style varies according to the age, figure types, occasion and the ensemble. They are typically worn with different styles of salwar, jeans pants, drain pant pyjamas, modern day palazzos or tight fitted chudidar, either with dupatta or stole.<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<ol start=\"2\">\r\n \t<li><strong> LEARNING OBJECTIVES<\/strong><\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\nAt the end of this lesson you will be able to\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Select appropriete fabric and calculate consumption for basic style of Kameez Prepare the draft and develop patterns .<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Develope skill of garment construction \u2013cutting stitching and finishing.<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<ol start=\"3\">\r\n \t<li><strong> HISTORY AND EVOLUTION<\/strong><\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">The modern Kameez is derived from the original Arabic \u201cQamis\u201d. It is spelt as \u2018Kamiz\u201d in non-Urdu languages. This traditional tunic in Hindi as well as in Persian is referred to as \u201cKameez\u201d. The Kameez is sometimes referred as \u201cKurta\u201d that more often refers to a unisex garment. The description given by Dorothy Burham of the Royal Ontario Museum refers to Kameez as a \u201cseamless shirt\u201d woven in one piece on warp-weighed looms were then superseded in early Roman times by cloth woven on vertical looms. The modern-day Kameez has a very close resemblance to the 10th century cotton shirt recovered from the Egyptian deserts dating back to the 10th century. The contemporised Kameez is called \u201cDjellaba\u201d or Jellabiya\u201d. In India the presence and history of this standard ladies\u2019 garment is justified from the remnants of the eleventh century feminine \u201cKurtaka\u201d with shirt like features extending to half the length of the body with slits at the sides.<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-221\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-97.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"390\" height=\"496\" \/>\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-222\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-98.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"344\" height=\"489\" \/>\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-223\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-99.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"361\" height=\"230\" \/>\r\n<ol start=\"4\">\r\n \t<li><strong> FABRIC SELECTION AND KAMEEZ STYLES<\/strong><\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\n<strong>4.1 Factors to be considered while choosing fabric and styles for Kameez<\/strong>\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">When it comes to choosing the right fabric and styles for Kameez it is important to consider the following factors.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Fibre and its properties<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Fabric construction and its performance<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Post fabric processes and finishing treatments imparted.<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Occasion, event, activity and location.<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Style features and length desired<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Figure types and figure irregularities<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Silhouette, Fit and ease: Tight or loose fittin<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Budget.<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-224\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-100.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"370\" height=\"442\" \/>\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-225\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-101.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"298\" height=\"470\" \/>\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-226\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-102.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"422\" height=\"469\" \/>\r\n<ol start=\"5\">\r\n \t<li><strong> DRAFTING AND PATTERN MAKING<\/strong><\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Pattern making and pattern cutting is an exciting craft. It is simple if the basic principles are learnt thoroughly and exiting if the learner is sensitive to the subtle changes in shape and silhouettes which changes with the change in trend and fashion. The basic Kameez pattern\u00a0can be adapted and transformed into various workable designs based on silhouettes, dart and seam locations, panels and length variations by alteration of the basic pattern.<\/p>\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-227\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-103.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"494\" height=\"570\" \/>\r\n<div>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">The basic rules of pattern drafting and cutting are based on sound principles and it is important to learn them thoroughly. In order to improvise or incorporate any creative decision these rules are broken allied to sound reasoning. A pattern is flat while the body is not since the body has height, width and depth. Within this roughly cylindrical framework of the body\u00a0<span style=\"text-align: justify;font-size: 1em\">figure there are a series of body parts, secondary curves and bulges that has to be taken into special consideration while designing a garment and constructing the garment by the pattern maker. Darts are the basis of all pattern making. The garment construction features like seams, darts, pleats, gathers, godets etc. help in converting the flat piece of cloth into a three dimensional form of the dress This dress not only fits along body parts and curves but also contour of the body to provide fit as well as ease for comfort and elegance.<\/span><\/p>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">A patternmaker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two dimensional fashion illustration. The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern making, fit and design are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong>5.1: Measurements needed for Kameez<\/strong><\/p>\r\n\r\n<ol>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Kameez length<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Bust round<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Waist round<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Hip round<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Waist length<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Hip length<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Shoulder (shoulder tip to shoulder tip)<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Neck depth<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Shoulder width (Take this measurement from shoulder tip toward the neck. This may vary according to how close or broad you want your neckline to be.<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Sleeve length<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Sleeve hemline circumference.<\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-228\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-104.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"522\" \/>\r\n\r\nLocate the top left hand corner of the pattern sheet.\r\n\r\nLeave 2 inches on the top and left hand side.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-229\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-105.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"283\" \/>\r\n<div>\r\n\r\n\u00a0 \u00a0a to b- Full length + 2 inch\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\na to c-1\/4th of chest\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\na to d-natural waist length + \u00bc th inch\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\na to e-Waist length +1\/4th inch\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\na to f \u2013 \u00bd shoulder + \u00bd inch\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nc to g \u2013 1\/4th chest + \u00bd inch for ease\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nh to i- 1 \u00bd inch for inlay\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nd to j \u2013 1\/4th waist round +1\/2 inch for ease\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nj to k -1 \u00bd inch inlay\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\ne to l- 1\/4th of waist circumference +1\/2 inch for ease.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nl to m \u2013 \u00bd inch for allowance\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\nb to n 1\/4th chest + 4 inches for flare.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nf to s -1\/2 inch for shoulder slope.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\na to o- 1\/12th\u00a0 of chest.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\na to p- 1 inch for back neck depth\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\na to r \u2013 1\/12th chest\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\na to q \u2013 front opening \u2013 1\/4th of chest + 3 inches.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<strong>5.3: Seam allowances for front and back of Kameez:<\/strong>\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n0.5 inch on the sides\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n1.5 inch for hem\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n0.25 inch on the armhole, neckline, and shoulders\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<strong>5.4: Sleeve Drafting<\/strong>\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-230\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-106.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"299\" height=\"223\" \/>\r\n<div>\r\n\r\nA to B = B to C = 1\/8 chest + 2.5 inches\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nB to E = Sleeve length = A to D = C to F\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nD to E = A to B\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nE to F = B to C\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nA to G = C to H = 1\/8 chest\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nB to I = B to J = 1 inch\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nJoin HJ and GI.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nK is midpoint of HJ.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nK to L = 0.5 inch\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nShape front armhole HLJ.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nM is midpoint of GI.\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\nM to N = 0.5 inch\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nO is midpoint of GM.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nP is midpoint of MI.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nP to Q = 0.625 inch\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nShape back armhole GONQI.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nE to R = E to S = half sleeve round + 0.5 inch ease\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nJoin GR and HS\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<strong>5.5: Seam allowances for sleeves<\/strong>\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n0.5 inch on the sides\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n1.5 inch for hem\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n0.25 inch on the armhole\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Note: Depending on the fabric and the ravelling of the yarns the seam allowance may be slightly altered. For shear fabrics suitable lining may be required.<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong>5.5: Collar Drafting<\/strong><\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">This is the drafting instructions to draft the collar as well as the interlining.<\/p>\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-231\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-107.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"356\" height=\"219\" \/>\r\n\r\n<strong>Figure 15: <\/strong>Drafting of Collar\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\na to b \u2013collar height i.e 1\u201d or 11\/4th\u00a0 inch\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nb to d and a to c -1\/2 neck measurement.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nC to e same as a to b\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nMark 1\u201d from d on line b d and draw the collar shape. The collar piece is abce.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nNote: Collar piece does not have seam allowance this is used for cutting the canvas or the Buckram fabric piece for stiffness. The seam allowance of 1\/4th inch has to be added while cutting the collar piece on the fabric.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<strong>5.6 Pattern layout and cutting<\/strong>\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-232\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-108.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"606\" \/>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong>Front: <\/strong>Place the zip below the front opening on the wrong side.<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Fold the slit and put an edge stitch at the zipper teeth so that it is seen.<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong>6.1: Assembling front and Back: <\/strong>Join the shoulder facing right and right side facing each other.<\/p>\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-233\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-109.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"486\" height=\"517\" \/>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Note: <\/em>Start sewing sleeve from the centre.<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Finish the sleeve hem by double fold.<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Join the side seam from the sleeve hem to the lower waist line by leaving by leaving one and half inch (in lay) allowance.<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-234\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-110.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"582\" height=\"580\" \/>\r\n\r\n<strong>6.1.2: Attachment of collar to the Kameez:<\/strong>\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Measure the neck and cut the collar piece according to the size and the pattern instruction.<\/p>\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-235\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-111.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"523\" height=\"251\" \/>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Fuse it on the wrong side of the collar piece.<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">At the neck line of the collar fold exactly according to the shape of the collar and put one presser foot wide seam.<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Take another piece of fabric and keep the collar facing right facing right and put a seam next to the canvas except the neck line.<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Cut the excess and slash the allowance and turn it.<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Leave one presser foot gap i.e. \u00bc inch and cut the excess..<\/p>\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-236\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-112.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"443\" height=\"254\" \/>\r\n\r\nAttach the collar from the wrong side of the garment.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nTurn it and put edge stitch.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<strong>6.1.3: Finishing and evaluation<\/strong>\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-237\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-113.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"201\" height=\"182\" \/>\r\n\r\n<strong>Figure 23<\/strong>: Final appearance of the garment.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nCut all the excess threads inside and outside of the garment.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nNeatly iron the entire garment on the seams and evaluate for finishing and fit.\r\n<ol start=\"7\">\r\n \t<li><strong> KAMEEZ STYLES WITH NECKLINE VARIATIONS<\/strong><\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Creative expressions with necklines and hem lines add interest and novelty to the conventional Kameeez styles. With the use of appropriate textures and combinations, it helps to create optical illusion to accentuate the positive features and mask the negative features of the figure.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong>Sweetheart neck: <\/strong>This curved neckline accentuates the neck. It can be used in Kameez styles with or without straps. It is formed by two curves forming a heart shape. Suitable for all body types and shoulder widths and slopes.<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-238\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-114.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"520\" height=\"257\" \/>\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-239\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-115.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"411\" height=\"539\" \/>\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-240\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-116.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"397\" height=\"569\" \/>\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-241\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-117.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"403\" height=\"430\" \/>\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-242\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-118.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"413\" height=\"453\" \/>\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-243\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-119.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"405\" height=\"525\" \/>\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-244\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-120.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"396\" height=\"443\" \/>\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-245\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-121.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"413\" height=\"376\" \/>\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-246\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-122.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"411\" height=\"474\" \/>\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-247\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-123.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"302\" height=\"509\" \/>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Ikat , Kalamkari, Warli, Madhbani art and some of the other traditional textile art forms, motifs and styles from various regions of India are gaining popularity both domestically and internationally. Hand and computerised embroidery, Applique work, smocking, pin tucks\u00a0 and other forms of value addition is gaining popularity and expresses creative formats of Kameez.<\/p>\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-248\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-124.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"403\" height=\"505\" \/>\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-249\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-125.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"254\" height=\"389\" \/>\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-250\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-126.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"383\" height=\"219\" \/>\r\n<ol start=\"8\">\r\n \t<li><strong> SUMMARY<\/strong><\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">At the end of this session let me recapitulate, on the pattern making and prototype development for Kameez. Kameez is an upper garment resembling the traditional tunic with or without slits at the sides. Cotton and linen are ideal for the conventional styles of Kameez. While structured fabrics, laces and nets can be also used based on the silhouette and pattern combinations. The consumption of the fabric depends on the size, width of fabric, style features and detailing. We have also understood the multiple steps involved in the drafting of Kameez. Finally, we have learnt the technique of pattern development and sewing skills essential for prototype development of Kameez.<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Kameez is now an all-time favourite irrespective of age or figure types. It suits all occasion and accepted both as a formal and casual wear in India. Newer styles and silhouettes are going to evolve since the trend is now moving towards synchronised clothing culture around the globe.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<table>\r\n<tbody>\r\n<tr>\r\n<td><strong>you can view video on Prototype Development: Women\u2019s Kameez <\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/kY5py5G5tXw\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img class=\"alignnone wp-image-120\" src=\"http:\/\/epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/11\/download.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"36\" height=\"36\" \/><\/a><\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<\/tbody>\r\n<\/table>\r\n<ul>Web Link<\/ul>\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>http:\/\/www.startsewing.co.uk\/patternterminology.html<\/li>\r\n \t<li>https:\/\/www.trishnewbery.com\/knowledge\/patternmaking\/patternmaking-terminology\/<\/li>\r\n \t<li>http:\/\/textileclothingmaterials.blogspot.in\/2009\/07\/pattern-drafting-glossary-terms.html<\/li>\r\n \t<li>https:\/\/quizlet.com\/124458075\/pattern-making-terms-flash-cards\/<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<strong>References<\/strong>\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Anamika Pathak (2006): Indian Costumes, Roli &amp; Janssen BV, New Delhi.<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Debbie Ann Gioello (2002): Understanding fabrics: From Fibre to Finished cloth, Fairchild Publications, New York.<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Helen Joseph-Armstrong (1995): Pattern making for fashion Design. Prentice Hall, New Jersey.<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Winifred Aldrich (1997): Metric pattern cutting, A unique, completely metric method for designing beautiful clothes, third edition, Blackwell Science Ltd., London.<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n&nbsp;","rendered":"<div><span style=\"float: right\"><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/kY5py5G5tXw\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/11\/download.png\" alt=\"epgp books\" width=\"75px\" height=\"75px;\" \/><\/a><br \/>\n<\/span><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li><strong> INTRODUCTION<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">A simple and single piece Kameez is a tunic worn as upper garment along with salwar, chudidar, pants or jeggings. The length, fabric and style varies according to the age, figure types, occasion and the ensemble. They are typically worn with different styles of salwar, jeans pants, drain pant pyjamas, modern day palazzos or tight fitted chudidar, either with dupatta or stole.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ol start=\"2\">\n<li><strong> LEARNING OBJECTIVES<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>At the end of this lesson you will be able to<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Select appropriete fabric and calculate consumption for basic style of Kameez Prepare the draft and develop patterns .<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Develope skill of garment construction \u2013cutting stitching and finishing.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ol start=\"3\">\n<li><strong> HISTORY AND EVOLUTION<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">The modern Kameez is derived from the original Arabic \u201cQamis\u201d. It is spelt as \u2018Kamiz\u201d in non-Urdu languages. This traditional tunic in Hindi as well as in Persian is referred to as \u201cKameez\u201d. The Kameez is sometimes referred as \u201cKurta\u201d that more often refers to a unisex garment. The description given by Dorothy Burham of the Royal Ontario Museum refers to Kameez as a \u201cseamless shirt\u201d woven in one piece on warp-weighed looms were then superseded in early Roman times by cloth woven on vertical looms. The modern-day Kameez has a very close resemblance to the 10th century cotton shirt recovered from the Egyptian deserts dating back to the 10th century. The contemporised Kameez is called \u201cDjellaba\u201d or Jellabiya\u201d. In India the presence and history of this standard ladies\u2019 garment is justified from the remnants of the eleventh century feminine \u201cKurtaka\u201d with shirt like features extending to half the length of the body with slits at the sides.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-221\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-97.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"390\" height=\"496\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-97.png 390w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-97-236x300.png 236w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-97-65x83.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-97-225x286.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-97-350x445.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 390px) 100vw, 390px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-222\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-98.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"344\" height=\"489\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-98.png 344w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-98-211x300.png 211w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-98-65x92.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-98-225x320.png 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 344px) 100vw, 344px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-223\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-99.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"361\" height=\"230\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-99.png 361w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-99-300x191.png 300w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-99-65x41.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-99-225x143.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-99-350x223.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 361px) 100vw, 361px\" \/><\/p>\n<ol start=\"4\">\n<li><strong> FABRIC SELECTION AND KAMEEZ STYLES<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p><strong>4.1 Factors to be considered while choosing fabric and styles for Kameez<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">When it comes to choosing the right fabric and styles for Kameez it is important to consider the following factors.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Fibre and its properties<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Fabric construction and its performance<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Post fabric processes and finishing treatments imparted.<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Occasion, event, activity and location.<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Style features and length desired<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Figure types and figure irregularities<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Silhouette, Fit and ease: Tight or loose fittin<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Budget.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-224\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-100.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"370\" height=\"442\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-100.png 370w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-100-251x300.png 251w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-100-65x78.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-100-225x269.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-100-350x418.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 370px) 100vw, 370px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-225\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-101.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"298\" height=\"470\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-101.png 298w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-101-190x300.png 190w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-101-65x103.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-101-225x355.png 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 298px) 100vw, 298px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-226\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-102.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"422\" height=\"469\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-102.png 422w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-102-270x300.png 270w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-102-65x72.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-102-225x250.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-102-350x389.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 422px) 100vw, 422px\" \/><\/p>\n<ol start=\"5\">\n<li><strong> DRAFTING AND PATTERN MAKING<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Pattern making and pattern cutting is an exciting craft. It is simple if the basic principles are learnt thoroughly and exiting if the learner is sensitive to the subtle changes in shape and silhouettes which changes with the change in trend and fashion. The basic Kameez pattern\u00a0can be adapted and transformed into various workable designs based on silhouettes, dart and seam locations, panels and length variations by alteration of the basic pattern.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-227\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-103.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"494\" height=\"570\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-103.png 494w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-103-260x300.png 260w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-103-65x75.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-103-225x260.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-103-350x404.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 494px) 100vw, 494px\" \/><\/p>\n<div>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">The basic rules of pattern drafting and cutting are based on sound principles and it is important to learn them thoroughly. In order to improvise or incorporate any creative decision these rules are broken allied to sound reasoning. A pattern is flat while the body is not since the body has height, width and depth. Within this roughly cylindrical framework of the body\u00a0<span style=\"text-align: justify;font-size: 1em\">figure there are a series of body parts, secondary curves and bulges that has to be taken into special consideration while designing a garment and constructing the garment by the pattern maker. Darts are the basis of all pattern making. The garment construction features like seams, darts, pleats, gathers, godets etc. help in converting the flat piece of cloth into a three dimensional form of the dress This dress not only fits along body parts and curves but also contour of the body to provide fit as well as ease for comfort and elegance.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">A patternmaker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two dimensional fashion illustration. The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern making, fit and design are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong>5.1: Measurements needed for Kameez<\/strong><\/p>\n<ol>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Kameez length<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Bust round<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Waist round<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Hip round<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Waist length<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Hip length<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Shoulder (shoulder tip to shoulder tip)<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Neck depth<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Shoulder width (Take this measurement from shoulder tip toward the neck. This may vary according to how close or broad you want your neckline to be.<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Sleeve length<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Sleeve hemline circumference.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-228\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-104.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"522\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-104.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-104-129x300.png 129w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-104-65x151.png 65w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Locate the top left hand corner of the pattern sheet.<\/p>\n<p>Leave 2 inches on the top and left hand side.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-229\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-105.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"283\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-105.png 200w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-105-65x92.png 65w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" \/><\/p>\n<div>\n<p>\u00a0 \u00a0a to b- Full length + 2 inch<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>a to c-1\/4th of chest<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>a to d-natural waist length + \u00bc th inch<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>a to e-Waist length +1\/4th inch<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>a to f \u2013 \u00bd shoulder + \u00bd inch<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>c to g \u2013 1\/4th chest + \u00bd inch for ease<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>h to i- 1 \u00bd inch for inlay<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>d to j \u2013 1\/4th waist round +1\/2 inch for ease<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>j to k -1 \u00bd inch inlay<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>e to l- 1\/4th of waist circumference +1\/2 inch for ease.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>l to m \u2013 \u00bd inch for allowance<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>b to n 1\/4th chest + 4 inches for flare.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>f to s -1\/2 inch for shoulder slope.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>a to o- 1\/12th\u00a0 of chest.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>a to p- 1 inch for back neck depth<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>a to r \u2013 1\/12th chest<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>a to q \u2013 front opening \u2013 1\/4th of chest + 3 inches.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>5.3: Seam allowances for front and back of Kameez:<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>0.5 inch on the sides<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>1.5 inch for hem<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>0.25 inch on the armhole, neckline, and shoulders<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>5.4: Sleeve Drafting<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-230\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-106.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"299\" height=\"223\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-106.png 299w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-106-65x48.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-106-225x168.png 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 299px) 100vw, 299px\" \/><\/p>\n<div>\n<p>A to B = B to C = 1\/8 chest + 2.5 inches<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>B to E = Sleeve length = A to D = C to F<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>D to E = A to B<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>E to F = B to C<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>A to G = C to H = 1\/8 chest<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>B to I = B to J = 1 inch<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Join HJ and GI.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>K is midpoint of HJ.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>K to L = 0.5 inch<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Shape front armhole HLJ.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>M is midpoint of GI.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>M to N = 0.5 inch<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>O is midpoint of GM.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>P is midpoint of MI.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>P to Q = 0.625 inch<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Shape back armhole GONQI.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>E to R = E to S = half sleeve round + 0.5 inch ease<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Join GR and HS<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>5.5: Seam allowances for sleeves<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>0.5 inch on the sides<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>1.5 inch for hem<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>0.25 inch on the armhole<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Note: Depending on the fabric and the ravelling of the yarns the seam allowance may be slightly altered. For shear fabrics suitable lining may be required.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong>5.5: Collar Drafting<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">This is the drafting instructions to draft the collar as well as the interlining.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-231\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-107.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"356\" height=\"219\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-107.png 356w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-107-300x185.png 300w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-107-65x40.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-107-225x138.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-107-350x215.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 356px) 100vw, 356px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Figure 15: <\/strong>Drafting of Collar<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>a to b \u2013collar height i.e 1\u201d or 11\/4th\u00a0 inch<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>b to d and a to c -1\/2 neck measurement.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>C to e same as a to b<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Mark 1\u201d from d on line b d and draw the collar shape. The collar piece is abce.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Note: Collar piece does not have seam allowance this is used for cutting the canvas or the Buckram fabric piece for stiffness. The seam allowance of 1\/4th inch has to be added while cutting the collar piece on the fabric.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>5.6 Pattern layout and cutting<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-232\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-108.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"606\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-108.png 400w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-108-198x300.png 198w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-108-65x98.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-108-225x341.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-108-350x530.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong>Front: <\/strong>Place the zip below the front opening on the wrong side.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Fold the slit and put an edge stitch at the zipper teeth so that it is seen.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong>6.1: Assembling front and Back: <\/strong>Join the shoulder facing right and right side facing each other.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-233\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-109.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"486\" height=\"517\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-109.png 486w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-109-282x300.png 282w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-109-65x69.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-109-225x239.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-109-350x372.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 486px) 100vw, 486px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Note: <\/em>Start sewing sleeve from the centre.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Finish the sleeve hem by double fold.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Join the side seam from the sleeve hem to the lower waist line by leaving by leaving one and half inch (in lay) allowance.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-234\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-110.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"582\" height=\"580\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-110.png 582w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-110-150x150.png 150w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-110-300x300.png 300w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-110-65x65.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-110-225x224.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-110-350x349.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 582px) 100vw, 582px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>6.1.2: Attachment of collar to the Kameez:<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Measure the neck and cut the collar piece according to the size and the pattern instruction.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-235\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-111.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"523\" height=\"251\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-111.png 523w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-111-300x144.png 300w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-111-65x31.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-111-225x108.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-111-350x168.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 523px) 100vw, 523px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Fuse it on the wrong side of the collar piece.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">At the neck line of the collar fold exactly according to the shape of the collar and put one presser foot wide seam.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Take another piece of fabric and keep the collar facing right facing right and put a seam next to the canvas except the neck line.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Cut the excess and slash the allowance and turn it.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Leave one presser foot gap i.e. \u00bc inch and cut the excess..<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-236\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-112.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"443\" height=\"254\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-112.png 443w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-112-300x172.png 300w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-112-65x37.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-112-225x129.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-112-350x201.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 443px) 100vw, 443px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Attach the collar from the wrong side of the garment.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Turn it and put edge stitch.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>6.1.3: Finishing and evaluation<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-237\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-113.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"201\" height=\"182\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-113.png 201w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-113-65x59.png 65w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 201px) 100vw, 201px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Figure 23<\/strong>: Final appearance of the garment.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Cut all the excess threads inside and outside of the garment.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Neatly iron the entire garment on the seams and evaluate for finishing and fit.<\/p>\n<ol start=\"7\">\n<li><strong> KAMEEZ STYLES WITH NECKLINE VARIATIONS<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Creative expressions with necklines and hem lines add interest and novelty to the conventional Kameeez styles. With the use of appropriate textures and combinations, it helps to create optical illusion to accentuate the positive features and mask the negative features of the figure.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong>Sweetheart neck: <\/strong>This curved neckline accentuates the neck. It can be used in Kameez styles with or without straps. It is formed by two curves forming a heart shape. Suitable for all body types and shoulder widths and slopes.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-238\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-114.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"520\" height=\"257\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-114.png 520w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-114-300x148.png 300w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-114-65x32.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-114-225x111.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-114-350x173.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 520px) 100vw, 520px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-239\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-115.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"411\" height=\"539\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-115.png 411w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-115-229x300.png 229w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-115-65x85.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-115-225x295.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-115-350x459.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 411px) 100vw, 411px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-240\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-116.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"397\" height=\"569\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-116.png 397w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-116-209x300.png 209w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-116-65x93.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-116-225x322.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-116-350x502.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 397px) 100vw, 397px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-241\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-117.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"403\" height=\"430\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-117.png 403w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-117-281x300.png 281w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-117-65x69.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-117-225x240.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-117-350x373.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 403px) 100vw, 403px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-242\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-118.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"413\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-118.png 413w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-118-274x300.png 274w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-118-65x71.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-118-225x247.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-118-350x384.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 413px) 100vw, 413px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-243\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-119.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"405\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-119.png 405w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-119-231x300.png 231w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-119-65x84.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-119-225x292.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-119-350x454.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 405px) 100vw, 405px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-244\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-120.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"396\" height=\"443\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-120.png 396w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-120-268x300.png 268w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-120-65x73.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-120-225x252.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-120-350x392.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 396px) 100vw, 396px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-245\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-121.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"413\" height=\"376\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-121.png 413w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-121-300x273.png 300w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-121-65x59.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-121-225x205.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-121-350x319.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 413px) 100vw, 413px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-246\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-122.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"411\" height=\"474\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-122.png 411w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-122-260x300.png 260w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-122-65x75.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-122-225x259.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-122-350x404.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 411px) 100vw, 411px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-247\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-123.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"302\" height=\"509\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-123.png 302w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-123-178x300.png 178w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-123-65x110.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-123-225x379.png 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 302px) 100vw, 302px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Ikat , Kalamkari, Warli, Madhbani art and some of the other traditional textile art forms, motifs and styles from various regions of India are gaining popularity both domestically and internationally. Hand and computerised embroidery, Applique work, smocking, pin tucks\u00a0 and other forms of value addition is gaining popularity and expresses creative formats of Kameez.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-248\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-124.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"403\" height=\"505\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-124.png 403w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-124-239x300.png 239w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-124-65x81.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-124-225x282.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-124-350x439.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 403px) 100vw, 403px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-249\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-125.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"254\" height=\"389\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-125.png 254w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-125-196x300.png 196w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-125-65x100.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-125-225x345.png 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 254px) 100vw, 254px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-250\" src=\"http:\/\/hsp07.epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-126.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"383\" height=\"219\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-126.png 383w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-126-300x172.png 300w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-126-65x37.png 65w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-126-225x129.png 225w, https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/251\/2019\/05\/Untitled-126-350x200.png 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 383px) 100vw, 383px\" \/><\/p>\n<ol start=\"8\">\n<li><strong> SUMMARY<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">At the end of this session let me recapitulate, on the pattern making and prototype development for Kameez. Kameez is an upper garment resembling the traditional tunic with or without slits at the sides. Cotton and linen are ideal for the conventional styles of Kameez. While structured fabrics, laces and nets can be also used based on the silhouette and pattern combinations. The consumption of the fabric depends on the size, width of fabric, style features and detailing. We have also understood the multiple steps involved in the drafting of Kameez. Finally, we have learnt the technique of pattern development and sewing skills essential for prototype development of Kameez.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Kameez is now an all-time favourite irrespective of age or figure types. It suits all occasion and accepted both as a formal and casual wear in India. Newer styles and silhouettes are going to evolve since the trend is now moving towards synchronised clothing culture around the globe.<\/p>\n<table>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>you can view video on Prototype Development: Women\u2019s Kameez <\/strong><\/td>\n<td><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/kY5py5G5tXw\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-120\" src=\"http:\/\/epgpbooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/11\/download.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"36\" height=\"36\" \/><\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<ul> <\/ul>\n<ul>\n<li>http:\/\/www.startsewing.co.uk\/patternterminology.html<\/li>\n<li>https:\/\/www.trishnewbery.com\/knowledge\/patternmaking\/patternmaking-terminology\/<\/li>\n<li>http:\/\/textileclothingmaterials.blogspot.in\/2009\/07\/pattern-drafting-glossary-terms.html<\/li>\n<li>https:\/\/quizlet.com\/124458075\/pattern-making-terms-flash-cards\/<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>References<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Anamika Pathak (2006): Indian Costumes, Roli &amp; Janssen BV, New Delhi.<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Debbie Ann Gioello (2002): Understanding fabrics: From Fibre to Finished cloth, Fairchild Publications, New York.<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Helen Joseph-Armstrong (1995): Pattern making for fashion Design. Prentice Hall, New Jersey.<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: justify\">Winifred Aldrich (1997): Metric pattern cutting, A unique, completely metric method for designing beautiful clothes, third edition, Blackwell Science Ltd., London.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"menu_order":20,"template":"","meta":{"pb_show_title":"on","pb_short_title":"","pb_subtitle":"","pb_authors":["dr-jayshree-venkatesh"],"pb_section_license":""},"chapter-type":[],"contributor":[65],"license":[],"class_list":["post-220","chapter","type-chapter","status-publish","hentry","contributor-dr-jayshree-venkatesh"],"part":3,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/220","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/chapter"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/8"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/220\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":253,"href":"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/220\/revisions\/253"}],"part":[{"href":"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/parts\/3"}],"metadata":[{"href":"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/220\/metadata\/"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=220"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"chapter-type","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapter-type?post=220"},{"taxonomy":"contributor","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/contributor?post=220"},{"taxonomy":"license","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ebooks.inflibnet.ac.in\/hsp07\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/license?post=220"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}