19 Prototype Development: Women’s Salwar

Jayshree Venkatesh

1. INTRODUCTION

The salwar is a baggy trouser worn popularly with Kameez.The leg panels are wide at the top at the waist and taper into a narrow shape at the ankle. The traditional Salwar is fastened at the waist with a draw string, pleated at the centre and has a stiff band to finish the bottom hem. The stiff band provides ease and firmness to the bottom hem and called “Poncha”. The “Poncha length and the hem circumference can be varied according to requirement. The ease, style, fabric varies according to age, figure type, occasion and fashion trends.

2. LEARNING OBJECTIVES

• At the end of this lesson you will be able to
• Select appropriete fabric and calculate consumption for basic style of Salwar Prepare the draft and develop patterns .
• Develope skill of garment construction –cutting stitching and finishing.

3. HISTORY AND EVOLUTION

The modern day Salwar is derived from the original Arabic “Shalwar”. They gained popularity during the Moghuls period in India. They are typically worn in Muslim countries and extensively in Balkans that were influenced by Ottoman Turks prior to World War –II. The earliest forms of Salwar were worn in Persia.

Traditionally named as Dogri pants or suthan in Jammu is popularly worn in parts of Jammu, Himachal Pradesh and Punjab. The hem circumference is less and opens up to the knee and fastened with multiple folds at the waist.

IV. FABRIC SELECTION AND SALWAR STYLES

The salwar is full length lower garment extending till the ankle. The selection of fabric is governed by variation in styles of Salwar. The broad waist band provides elegant look and comfort.

4.1 Factors to be considered while choosing fabric and styles for Salwar

When it comes to choosing the right fabric and styles for Kameez it is important to consider the following factors.

• Composition and blend of fibres and its properties.
•  Fabric construction and its performance.
• Post fabric processes and finishing treatments imparted.
• Occasion, event, activity and location.
• Style features and length of Kammez to be worn with salwar.
• Figure types and figure irregularities.
• Silhouette, Fit and ease: Tight or loose fitting.
• Budget.

4.2 Tools and materials required for Salwar

1.  Pattern paper

2.  Marking chalk

3.  Scissors

4.  Carbon and tracing wheel

5.  Iron

6.  Sewing machine

7.Canvas fabric or Fusing material.

8. Sewing Needle:

The important feature of any sewing machine is the needle. Needle systems are introduced since newer fabrics evolve, new sewing machines develop, which work at high speeds. The basic functions of a needle is to create a passage in the material for the thread to pass through. To carry the needle through the material and form a loop. To pass the needle thread through the loop forward by the looper mechanism on machines other than lock stitch.

4.2.1 Needle parts and its Physical characteristics

A needle has various parts to execute different functions during the sewing operations:

• Butt: The shaped top end which facilitates insertion into the needle bar/clamp.
• Shank: the thicker part of the needle held by the needle clamp or the needle set screw. It supports the needle as a whole by providing additional strength. Shoulder: The intermediate section between the shank and the blade.
• Blade: the needle portion extends from the shank to the eye.

This is subjected to the greatest amount of friction and hence heat when it passes through the material.

Long groove(s)

It is present in one side of the needle blade for the convenience of the needle thread from the take-up device and provides a protective channel in which the thread is drawn down through the materials during stitch formation.

• Short grove: It is formed on the other side of a long groove, towards the shuttle, hook, or looper and it assists in throwing the loop of needle thread.
• Eye: The eye of the needle is present in the bottom end of the blade. Needle thread allowed through this eye is taken in the bottom area.
• Scarf: (clearance): It is a clearance cut in the needle blade just above the eye to permit a closer setting of the shuttle, hook or looper to the needle.
• Point: The point of the needle is shaped to provide the most suitable penetration of the material being sewn according to its nature and the desired stitch effect.
• Tip: The extreme tip shape in combination with the point defines penetration of the material being sewn according to its nature and the desired stitch effect.
• Tip: The extreme tip shape, in combination with the point defines penetration performance.

4.2.2 Consideration for choosing the right kind of sewing thread

The most essential component of sewing is the considerations for thread selection.

The diverse components that go into a spool of thread are fibre characteristics, structure, final finish which establishes how well it behaves with the machine and the sewing process, size and type. It is important to check the quality since inferior threads can leave a residue on the machine and clog it with lint. The sewing thread should be smooth, nub free strand that does not twist easily and free of fuzz. To judge a thread, unroll a length, hold it towards light and look closely with the finger tips fee for nubs and check the smoothness. For general construction the same thread is used in the bobbin and the top thread because it is practical and simplifies balancing the tension. There are various finishes given to sewing threads. All the threads are lubricated with chemicals.

Bonded: Polyester or Nylon threads are coated to keep it from shredding and reduce abrasion.

Gassed: Cotton threads are quickly passed through a flame to reduce fuzz.

Glazed: Cotton threads for hand sewing are treated with starches, waxes or chemicals and polished to a lustre for a smooth glossy surface to reduce knots and tangling. Mercerized cotton or cotton-covered polyester thread are first given a caustic soda bath and then neutralised with an acid. Mercerization adds strength, lustre and dye affinity and reduce lint. Soft: usually refers to cotton thread without finishing processes.

All purpose threads are strong enough for seaming are available in cotton, polyester, cotton wrapped polyester for garment sewing, silk for special occasion sewing and nylon for home de ’core items or heavy all weather gear. These are available in a wide range of colours often according to fashion trend.

      Serger threads: for all purpose thread that has a special finish to withstand high speed sewing and comes in cones or tubes.

Monofilament threads: a single stand of nylon or polyester filament. Polyester withstands higher heat than nylon. Almost invisible it comes clear, grey or matte.

Textured thread (woolly nylon or polyester): Fills in stitches on rolled hems and overlock stitches and makes soft, stretchy seams.

Table 1: Thread size comparison Chart:

**   A slash separate weight from plies: When there is slash in thread size, the first numeral indicates weight, the second the number of plies in that thread.

Generally, 2-ply threads are for machine-embroidery and 3-ply threads are for all purpose.

Denier: This indicated the coarseness or finesse of silk and manmade threads like polyester, rayon, nylon. Denier is a weight in grams of 9000 meters of specific thread. The higher the number, the heavier and thicker the thread.

Tex: Used for industrial threads only the system is expected to become universal. Tex is the weight in grams of 1,000 meters of specific thread. The higher the value, the heavier and thicker the thread.

4.3 Fibres and fabrics suitable for Salwar

Many different styles of salwar are available in a wide range of fabrics. It is important to consider by the individual their preference on choosing natural or synthetic fibres. Pure cotton is a natural fibre and most popular choice for salwar’s. It provides immense comfort and is breathable. It is durable and has good dimensional stability. It is easily washable by hand as well as machine. Good quality dyed cotton retains the colour and does not bleed or fade. Plain woven cotton fabrics are ideally suited for Salwar. Pre-shrunk and mercerised cotton fabrics are a good choice since they add value to product both in terms of aesthetic appeal and performance. Fabrics made from linen fibres provides cool skin sensation and light in weight. It provides immense comfort and a crisp look. Fabrics with silk or viscose blends are very delicate but they provide lustre and are aesthetically appealing. Silk and silk blends look extremely graceful but require appropriate maintenance. These are best suited as evening or festive wear along with silk Kameez. A small percentage of synthetic fibres like polyester can impart the fabric wrinkle resistance properties. The type of fabric chosen will depend on the comfort and functional performance. Fabrics with higher percentages of synthetic fibres are not healthy to wear in humid environment since it will increase perspiration and body odour. When choosing the right fabric for Salwar, it is important that the wearer thinks about the occasion and its combination with Kameez and dupatta.

4.3.1. Selection of fabric with variations in motif and layout

Appropriate selection of motif is essential since it has to be matched with the Kameez or any suitable upper garment to form an ensemble. Solid colours are very popular and practical since it can be easily matched with any colour of the Kameez fabric selected. Poplin is the best suited material since it is easy to handle and stitch. From user point of view, it has good comfort features and drapability. Mercerised cotton and polyester cotton blended fabrics are popularly used. Fabrics with special crease recovery finishes and easy care fabrics are preferred for salwar.

. PATTERN MAKING AND GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

Pattern making is an art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human figure depending on the silhouette of the garment. Pattern making is the intermediate process between garment design and garment construction. A pattern for a particular style of a garment is developed using the body measurement and a set of instructions to develop the basic block. The accurate body measurement, patterns and adaptation forms the foundation for the success of the garment. The basic Salwar pattern can be adapted and transformed into various workable designs based on silhouettes, dart and pleats and panels.

STANDARD BODY MEASUREMENTS: (All measurements are in Inches)

    Body measurements for Salwar drafting:

The following measurements are essential for drafting Salwar:

• Waist circumference: Taken around the deepest level of waist
• Hip circumference: Taken around the fullest level of hip
• Length of Salwar: Waist level to full length.
• Waist band length: Waist level to hip level.
• Ponch length: 1 ½ to 2 ½ inches depending on the style of Salwar.

  5.1 Estimation of fabric required for Salwar

(i) 2 X (Full Length) + Waist band length

5.1.1 Fabric Calculation based on width of Fabric:

For 36” wide Fabric: {2 x (Full Length) + Waist band length} For 40” wide Fabric- {(Full Length) + Waist band length} More than 40” wide fabrics: One Full Length

Note: In the case of fabrics that are prone to shrinkage a 2% additional fabric may be procured and ½” addition to the total length may be considered.

Figure1: Drafting steps for Salwar front & back pattern

5.2 Instructions for drafting of Salwar front & back patterns

• The size of paper for pattern preparation
• Figure 1 gives the diagram for drafting and the preparation of paper patterns.
• Locate the top left hand corner of the pattern paper.
• Vertical line: a to b –Full length minus waist band length + 2” allowance.
• b to c – 2” for bottom folding. (or depending on the poncho length)
• Horizontal line:  a to d- Width of fabric
• d to e – 1/6 th hip circumference
• b to f – ½ th bottom circumference + ½ inch

5.2.1 Drafting of waist Band:

• A to b – 2” for top folding and casing.
• b-c –waist band length or 1/6th of hip circumference a to d and c to f- 1/3rd of hip circumference.

Cut components for Salwar:

• Leg panels: Cut 2
• Waist Band: Cut 1
• Draw string: Cut 1

5.3 Pattern layout and cutting:

Fold the fabric lengthwise to become double layer with wrong side facing each other. Place the paper pattern on top of it, pin.

Cut  fabric   out   according   to   the  front   and  back   pattern   (including   seam    allowance). Trace sewing lines and markings on the fabric by using carbon and tracing wheel.

5.4: Pattern assembling and garment construction

All the cut components are assembled by following step (i) to step (xvi)

Figure: (i), (ii), (iii), (iv) gives the steps in preparation of Poncha.

Figure    : (v) and (vi) gives the steps for setting the front pleat.

Join the crotch seam with leg panels placed with fabric right side facing each other. Finish the bottom by enclosing the canvas between the double folding of the folding allowance.

• Attach the waist band to the leg panels by incorporating pleats at the centre front.
• Join the crotch leaving 4” inches gap from the waist line.
• Finish the waist line edges by folding the casing allowance.
• Finish the casing by double folding.
• Insert a drawstring to form gathers at the waist.
• Cut all the excess threads inside out.
•   Evaluate for fit and finishing.

6. SALWAR STYLES AND NEW TRENDS

The modern salwar set is the Patiala Salwar which has many folds and originates from the city of Patiala.

7. SUMMARY

At the end of this session let me recapitulate, on the pattern making and prototype development for Salwar. Salwar is a lower garment resembling the trouser with or without waist band. Cotton and linen are ideal for the conventional styles of Salwar. While structured light brocades, synthetic blended fabrics can be also used based on the size and pattern combinations. The consumption of the fabric depends on the size, width of fabric, style features and detailing. We have also understood the multiple steps involved in the drafting of Salwar. Finally, we have learnt the technique of pattern development and sewing skills essential for prototype development of Salwar.

Salwar is now an all-time favourite irrespective of age or figure types. It suits all occasion and accepted both as a formal and casual wear in India.