18 Prototype Development: Men’s T-Shirt

M. Sumithra

epgp books

 

 

 

1. INTRODUCTION

 

Men’s T-Shirt is durable garment worn as outerwear or underwear.T-shirt also called “teeshirt”a casual shirtwithout a button and collar. Men’s T-shirt typically extends to the waist, made in various colours, designs, sizes, style, patterns and fits. The features are short sleeves, round neckline which is known as crew neck and V neck. Men’s T-shirt are also available in different neckline, types and cuts. Interlock and jersey knitted fabrics where mostly used for Men’s T-Shirt. It is prepared either from the same material or different materials are used for front, back, sleeve and collar etc. T-Shirt Can be sewn either regular sewing machine or an overlock machine. Zip Fasteners, buttons and patch pocket is attached according to taste.

 

T-Shirt brings out best in Men’s. Men’s T-Shirts are the staple of all men’s casual wardrobes, shirts are comfortable, light weight and trendyShirt also becomes a medium for self-expression and advertising. The basic tee is being adopted by fashion designers, celebrities and the public.

 

2. DEFINITION

 

Men’s T-Shirt is a short sleeved casual top, made of cotton material, having the shape of a T when it spread out flat.

 

2.1. HISTORY OF T-SHIRT

 

T-Shirt has its own history in U.S Military. In late 80s classic T-Shirt has origins as an undergarment and evolved from one-piece union suit. The U.S Navy began issuing T-Shirts as undergarments in 1900s. After World War II veterans began wearing T-shirts every day as casual clothing. In 1950s after Marlon Brando wore one in A Streetcar named desire. That shirt becomes fashionable to wear on its own.

 

2.2. MATERIALS USED INMEN’S T-SHIRT

 

Fabric will determine how to hold its shape even after many washing and wearing .Men’s

T-shirts are made from cotton, organic cotton, poly cotton, polyester, model, and linen fabric.

Fabrics based on knitting structure are single jersey and double jersey. For neck finishing single jersey knitted fabric is used as 1X1 ribs and 2X2 ribs.Jersey is most commonly used since they are comfortable, relatively inexpensive and versatile.High quality T-Shirts are made of durable interlock rib knit fabrics.

 

Several colours and types of thread may be used to make a single T-Shirt .similar colour or constant colours of thread used in men’s T-shirt. Decorative features include braiding and trims.

2.3. SLEEVES USED INMEN’S T-SHIRT

 

It is possible to develop a variety in sleeves for MEN’S T-Shirt. Choosing a sleeve style that must suits your figure, design, current trend and fabric.Sleeves may be classified in to two types namely set- in sleeves and styles in which full bodice is combined with the sleeve.

 

Sleeves Cut and stitch separately and seamed to the armscye depth of the garment is named as set in sleeves. The set in sleeves are plain sleeve, short sleeve, long sleeve, capped sleeve, 3/4 sleeve and full sleeve with cuff.

 

Sleeves styles in which full bodice or part of bodice is combined with the sleeve is named as raglan sleeves.

 

2.4 COLLERS USED IN MEN’ST-SHIRT

 

Collar is a separate piece of fabric that is attached to the neckline of a men’s T-shirt. Collar is used to the neckline of a garment in order to enhance the appearance and serves to finish the raw edges at the neckline.Collar design can be made to look decorative and introduce suitable trimmings such as lace, bows, embroidery, buttons, etc.

 

A collar may be cut of different fabric, colour, design, texture and grain to producing novel effects.Some major factors must be considered in designing collar styles are design of the fabric, pattern of garment, texture of the fabric, use of the garment, purpose of the garment, age of the wearer, sex of the wearer and appearance of the wearer.

 

Collars are classified according to their various characteristics such as neckline shape, width of the collar and shape of its outer edge.

 

The collars used for men’s T-shirt are shirt collar, button collar, convertible collar, notched collar, shawl collar, small stand up collar and large stand up collar.

 

2.5. NECK LINE USED IN MEN’ST-SHIRT

 

Traditional necklines are crew neck. The new fashionable cuts are Deep scoop neck, Deep V neck andScoop neck.

 

Crew neck– The most popular style for Men’s T-shirt, the round neck or crew neck is the most traditional and common in men’s T-shirt neckline.

 

Deep Scoop-The scoopneck had a deep cut and is mainly used by image conscience guys, who want to show their muscles.

 

Deep V Neck-The deep v neck ultimate aim is showing off your body.

 

Scoop Neck– Similar to crew neck collar and more oval. Past 3 to 4 years this neck line gained more popularity.

 

2.6. POCKETS USED IN MEN’ST-SHIRT

 

In men’s garment pockets are used mainly for utilitarian purposes than decorative purpose. Selecting pocket designs harmonise with the design of the fabric as well as the garment. The rectangular shaped pockets cut on crosswise grain and completed with bias edging will gives you good look.You can also design decorations within the pocket in the form of applique, pleats, tucks, patch work, machine embroidery etc.

 

Pocket may be classified in to three types, such as patch pocket, set-in pocket and pocket set into seam. In men’s T-Shirt patch pocket is normally used and are attached to the outside of the garment and may be cut in different shapes, sizes, colours, texture and design can enhance the appearance of the garment.Sometimes flaps are used without any pocket, purely for decorative purpose.

 

2.7ADDITIONAL FEATURESIN MEN’S T-SHIRT

 

Specialdesigned with shoulder openings that may be fastened with snaps or buttons.

 

2.8 TYPES OF MEN’ST-SHIRT

 

1.   NECK T-SHIRT

 necks are used for men with rounder faces and large body. For short men V neck elongates the neck and it shows slimming effect for large men.

 

2.  POLO T-SHIRT

 

Polo T-shirt still maintains unique, available in different styles and classic appearance.

 

3.  HENLEY T-SHIRT

 

More stylish, muscular and it has aesthetic look to the T-shirt.

 

4.  GRAPHIC T-SHIRT

 

Graphic tee is characterized by graphics in the form of photographs, in front of the T-shirt.

Keep the graphic clean and invisible.

 

5.  STRIPED T-SHIRT

 

T-shirt design will be created with striped motif.

 

6.  PLAIN T- SHIRT

 

Great choice of good looks, easy going and holiday style.

 

7.  PRINTED T-SHIRT

 

Showcasingdecorative motifs, prints of fashion designs.

 

8.  HOODED T-SHIRT

 

Hooded T-shirt will be nice choice if you are planning to spend time with your family.

 

9.  CREW NECK T- SHIRT

 

Is rounded, circular neckline. Most common T-shirt worn by everyone. More suitable for round, narrow faces and sloped shoulders.

 

10.RETRO T-SHIRT

 

Printing takes you back of the golden days. Mostly made in the 80 s and 90s.

 

11.  SLOGAN T-SHIRT

 

Slogans have been used in clothing. Fashion statement and political messages can be used as slogan

 

12.  FUNNY T-SHIRT

 

Very creative, novelty and make everyone around you feel good

 

2.9 TYPES OF MENS T-SHIRT PRINTING

 

The printing used in MEN’S Tare Screen printing, Transfer paper print, Direct to garment printing, sublimation printing,and vinyl printing

 

Screen printing

 

Screen printing is a great method for mass production. It involves creating a stencil or template, which is then placed by screen usually called as nylon mesh. The ink is then flooded on to the screen, a squeegee is used to press down and make sure the ink gets in to all parts of screen. Excess will be wiped off and the screen is taken off with the design being printed.

 

Transfer paper print

 

Transfer paper print is also known as Iron on transfers. Very easy and simple process .Design from one surface is transferred to the other. In this method pigments in paraffin (or) thermoplastic base can be melted and bonded on to the fabric surface by the application of pressure and heat.

 

Direct to garment printing

 

DTG is printing directly on to garment i.e. Men’s T-shirt. New idea in terms of printing on shirts. Disadvantage is very expensive DTG printer is costly.

 

Sublimation printing

T-Shirt which has all over print on it is used for galaxy print, repeat print etc. For sublimation print 100 % polyester can be used rather than cotton. Which gives different feel and properties.

 

Vinyl printing

 

In vinyl printing special software is used with computer aided design cutter to cut designs according to the requirement, using heat press sticker is applied on the garment. Vinyls are soft, excellent fading resistance and will not get crack through the print.

 

2.10. DIFFERENT KINDS OF T-SHIRT STYLES

 

Basic

 

A basic T-Shirt is in one color and pattern throughout. A basic T-Shirt can found in any sleeve style and used for simple occasion.

 

Graphic

 

A graphic t-shirt is one that has an image printed on to fabric.Very popular style,T-shirt displays brand name, logo, dates and lyrics.

 

Embellished

 

Embellishment T-shirts can be decorated with lace,sparkles,bows,studs,sequences etc.

 

2.11 Types of MEN’S T-Shirt fits

 

Slim fitted, regular and loose fit MEN’S T-Shirt

 

2.12. MEASUREMENT REQUIRED FOR MENS T-SHIRT

  • Chest- 32”
  • Full length -31”
  • Shoulder- 8.5”
  • Half Sleeve from shoulder-10”

2.13. MATERIAL REQUIREMENT

 

For any garment one needs a minimum of two lengths plus seam allowances. The fabric has two grains lengthwise grain and width wise grain. One should cut the garment lengths along the length wise grain as this is the stronger grain and the fall of the garment would be far better on this grain. One is able to cut the garment in less fabric only if the width of the fabric is wide enough to fit two length of the garment in one length of the fabric. The patterns representing all the individual pieces of the garment should be laid out together in such a manner that they fit within the confines of the fabric width as closely and efficiently as possible. This minimizes the wastage in fabric. This is a pattern lay. Approximately3Meters Material required for this Men’s T-Shirt.

 

2.14. COMPONENTS:

  • Front bodice -1 piece
  • Back bodice – 1 piece
  • Sleeve part -2 Pieces
  • Rib part -1 Piece

 

2.15.DRAFTING INSTRUCTIONFOR BASIC MEN’S T-SHIRT MANUALLY

 

Front bodice

  • Mark lines from 0, fold at 0-2.
  • 0-1 = 1/4 chest
  • 0-2 =full length +1/2”
  • 0-3 = 1/12 chest
  • 3-4= 1”
  • 0-5= 1/12 chest (same as 0-3)
  • Join 4-5, shape neck 3-5
  • 0-6 = shoulder+1/4”
  • Square down from 6 to 7
  • 6-8 = 1”, join 3-8
  • 7-9 = 1”
  • 1-10=1/4 chest +2”, shapearmscye depth 8-9-10 Square down from 10 to 11
  • 11-12=1”, join 10-12

 

Draw line 13-14 at a distance of ¼ for placket opening (to taste), from line 5-1-2. 13-14=1/4 chest+1.5”or to taste for opening.(not used for this t-shirt pattern) Cut the upper layer at 13-14, thus keeping the right side wider than the left.

 

Back bodice

  • 0-15= 1/2”
  • 3-16      =1 ½””
  • Shape 15-16 and join 16-6
  • Shape Armscye 6-17-10
  • 12-18 =nearly 4.5” notch for opening
  • Keep 11/2” inturnsat 2-12

Sleeve

  • Square lines from 0, fold at 2
  • 0-1=1/4 chest+1/2”
  • 0-2 = sleeve length from shoulder +3/4” for seams
  • 2-3=same as 0-1, join 1-3
  • 1-4 =1/8 chest-1/2”
  • 0-5=1 ½”
  • Join 4 to 5, shape back side 4-6-5-0 as shown in figure. Square up from 4 to 7 4-7=1/12 chest
  • Taking ¼ “above point 4, shape front side 4-7-0 as shown 2-8=1/8 chest”+3”. (To taste) Join 4-8 by straight line
  • Keep 1”outside 2-8 for in turns.

Rib

  • 0-1 and 2-3 –rib height
  • 0-4 and 1-2 – ½ neck width
  • Rib part cut line from 0, 3, 2 and 1.
  • Ribs can be also used in neck finishing in a single jersey T-shirt.

2.17. LAYOUT

 

For laying press the fabric as well as all the pattern pieces flat before laying the pattern on the fabric. Use a large flat surface. Fold the fabric right side facing and wrong sides out. For laying Lengthwise centre fold is used for this Men’s T-Shirt. The fabric is folded down the middle parallel to the selvedges.so that selvedge’s come together. This is the most commonly used fold.

 

2.18.PINNINGAND CUTTING PATTERNS TO THE FABRIC FIRMLY

 

After placement of patterns, pin the corners and the long outside edges of the patterns, placing pins close to perpendicular to the cutting lines. Avoid too many pins, start cutting the fabric after pinning all the pattern pieces. Make sure that you have drawn cutting lines on the fabric leaving enough seam allowance. Cut with long and even strokes, walk around the table as you cut because if you move the material or pattern grain may shift resulting uneven edges. Cutaccurately following the cutting lines.

2.19. CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR MANUAL SEWING PROCESS

  • Stitch the side seam of the Men T-shirt together on the seam line and fold stitch the hem line.
  • Stitch the shoulder seams and finish the neck opening with it.
  • Attach the sleeves with the shirt pieces and sew the hem in sleeves.
  • Press the fabric properly with iron.

2.20. THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS IN INDUSTRY

 

Making Men’s T-shirt is a simple process. Specially designed machines are used for cutting, assembling and stitching. The commonly used seams aresuperimposed seams, narrowseams andbound seams.

 

The superimposed and narrow seams are usually made by placing one piece of fabric on to another and lining the seam edges. The stitches are over edge stitch with one needle thread from above and other two lopper threads below.

 

Bound seams narrow piece of fabric is folded around a seam, for these seams stitching together using lock stitch, chain stitch or over edge stitch.

 

Styling

The men’s T-shirt is designed and sized

 

Cutting

The men’s T-shirt sections are cuter and separated front, back, sleeves, pocket and trims

 

Assembling the front and back

If fabric is not tubed, the front and back parts must be stitched together and joined using over edge stitch.

  Assembling the sleeves

The hems of the sleeves are finished first and sleeve material is sewn together during the final stage of sewing the shirt, the side seams and sleeve are sewn in one action.

 

Adding pockets

 

Pockets for men’s t-shirt intended for casual wear. Higher quality men’s T-shirt will have interlining in to the pocket, so that it maintains its shape.

 

Stitching the hem

 

The garment hem is commonly sewn with an over edge stitch.

 

Adding pockets

 

Pockets may be attached to the garment with automated setters. The operator only has to arrange the fabric pieces, the mechanical setter positions the pocket and stitches the seam.

 

Attaching the neckband

 

For traditional crew neck shirts, the neck edge should be slightly shorter in width than the outer edge and attached to the garment. The neck brand are applied manually, the bands are folded wrong sides together, stretched slightly and joined with neckline.

 

Finishing the neckline

 

The necklines are superimposed seams may be taped, so that the shirt is stronger and comfortable. The seam is then cover with top stitch.

 

Label setting

Labels provide information about the manufacture,size, fabric details, and washing instruction. Labels are attached at back of neckline.

 

Operational features

Prints, fasteners and trims are attached

 

Finishing operations

Men’s t-shirts are inspected and packed.

  1. Conclusion

MEN’S T-SHIRT was originally worn as undershirts in beginning and is now frequently worn as outerwear. This topic gives you more knowledge about the material selection, sleeves, collars, necklines, pockets, types, prints ,styles, fits, measurements and material requirement, draftingpatterns and construction procedures for Men’s T-Shirt.

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References

  1. Practical clothing construction, part II, designing drafting and tailoring by Mary Mathews, Bhatta rams, 19, balakrishnanst.valmikinagar, Thiruvanmiyar, Chennai 600041.
  2. Apparel Construction, copyright 2014 by 3g elearning FZLLC, UAE, ISBN-978-93-5115-123-4
  3. 3.Zarapkar system  of  cutting   by  K.R.Zarapkar,Navneet       publications(India) limited,dantali,Gujarat.
  4. Sally Larsen with neelicherkovshi, japlish, pomegranate art books, san francises, 1993, ISBN 1-56640-454-1.
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