17 Prototype Development: Children’s Frock

R. Sheela John

epgp books

 

 

 

 

1.1 Introduction

 

Clothing is an inevitable part of human race. The dresses vary according to the age and sex of the wearer. Women wear saree, salwar kameez, kurti, lehanga, gowns, pant, jeans, ladies tops and so on. Men wear pant, jeans, shirt, t-shirt, dhoti, pyjama, kurta, sherwani, blazer etc., Boys are commonly seen shirt, t-shirt, jeans, shorts and baba suit whereas for the girls it is frock, skirt, jeans andtops. Frock is the most common wear of any girl child. It is worn as casual wear and also as party wear. In this module we will learn about the method of preparing patterns for the frocks

 

1.2 Learning outcome

  • Various styles of frock
  • Method of preparing patterns for the same and Construction of frock

1.3 Frock Designs

 

Designs are innumerable as far as the frock is concerned. Hence for easier understanding they are grouped in five types

 

1.3.1    A-line Frock

1.3.2    Summer Frock

1.3.3     Yoke Frock

1.3.4     Bodice and Skirt combined

1.3.5    Three layered Skirt

 

1.3.1 A-line Frock
A-line frock is derived from the shape or silhouette of the frock where the two sides are slant. It also follows the shape of the alphabet ‘A’ where it tapered at the top and wider at the bottom.

Construction the A-line Frock

  • The front and back pattern pieces are attached at the shoulder line. The back open is finished with 2-piece placket
  • The neck line and the armscye is finished bias facing or piping. The side seams are joined together and
  • The hemline is finished finally

Variations in A-line Frock – Princess line can be added to the A-line frock. Princess line can be added in two ways

 

(a) From center of the armscye to the center of the hemline

(b) From center of the shoulder to the center of the hem line

(a) Princess line from center of the armscye to the center of the hemline

Construction of A-line frock with princess line

 

The pattern pieces of the front are stitched together at the princess line. The front and the back is attached at the shoulder line followed by finishing of neckline and armscye. The hemline is finished after the side seams are joined

 

More designs can be created with this A-line frock with princess line. To name a few:-

  • Attach the sleeves like plain sleeve, cap sleeve , puff sleeves and so on
  • Collars like peter pan collar, puritan collar, sailor collars etc., can be included at the neckline
  • Pockets of different shapes and sizes can be added
  • Decorations like laces, bows, satin ribbons, embroidery can be given

Construction of Summer frock

  • The straps of the summer frock are first finished. It will have two layers. It is stitched placing one layer over the other, like a tubing, turned in and out. It is then topstitched for a neat finish.
  • The front and the back bodice are joined together at the side seam line.
  • The chest line and the armscye are finished with a bias facing or tubing with straps placed inbetween.
  • Finally the hemline of the frock is finished neatly.
  • More designs can be created with the summer frock. To name a few:-
  • Replacing the straps with decorated ties.
  • Laces and satin ribbon can be attached along the chestline. Roses or bows can be attached for decoration.
  • The fabric is cut and the sewing is done in the following order
  • Where the back pattern is finished first with two piece placket. Stitch the front and back pattern the shoulder line.
  • Finish the neckline and the armscyewith bias facing or piping
  • Gather the skirt front and back and attach it to the front and back yoke Finish the hemline of the frock after the joining of side seams
  • The placket has to be finished with press buttons

More designs can be created with the yoke frock.  To name a few:-

  • Plain sleeve or puff sleeve can be added
  • Interesting collars like Peter pan collar or any other narrow collar can be sewn at the neckline
  • Trimmings and decorations like laces, satin ribbons, bows, embroidery will add to the beauty of the garment

Construction of Frock style – Bodice and skirt combined

  • After tracing the pattern blocks onto the fabric and cut the fabric Attach the front and back of the bodice at the shoulder
  • The center back is finished with placket
  • Finish the neckline and the armscyewith bias facing or piping
  • Gather the skirt and stitch it to the waistline of the bodice front and back Complete the Hemline after joining the side seams

Yoke designs in the bodice block – Three yoke designs are shown here

  • Design 1 – Yoke at the armscye line
  • Design 2 – Yoke at the neckline
  • Design 3 – Princess line yoke

While sewing, the yoke and the bodice block is combined first ad rest of the steps are similar to the one we discussed earlier for the skirt and bodice style

 

Design 2 –Yoke at the neckline

 

In this style, yoke is present at the neckline which can be decorated and emphasized. A slanting vertical line is drawn from the middle of the shoulder and is squared below the neckline.

The shape and the size can be changed as desired

While sewing, the yoke is first attached and followed by the other steps (as explained earlier)

Design 3 – Princess Line Yoke

Princess line is drawn in the bodice block like the same we learnt in A-line frock. The princess line starts midway of the armscye and ends at the waistline. The yoke and the bodice block is separated along the princess line. The sewing stepsare similar to the design 1

  • More designs can be created frock – Bodice and skirt combined. To name a few:-
  • Varieties of sleeve and collar can be added
  • The bodice block, skirt and yoke can be varied with plain and printed or woven design fabrics
  • For party wears, the skirt can be layered with a netted or transparent fabric which will enhance the beauty and give a rich look to the frock
  • As we learnt earlier Laces and satin ribbon can be added and embroidery Pockets, frills and bows also added for variety and beauty

 

1.3.5  Three layered Skirt

 

In this type of frock, the skirt is layered into three. The skirt pattern is divided into three equal parts horizontally. The three layers are separated and given seam allowance. While sewing the layers are skirt are gathered and is fixed over a basic skirt pattern at the appropriate places. The skirt can be 2 layered or 4 layered as desired. Fabrics can be varied for all layers

Conclusion:

 

Basic designs of frock discussed will enable you to create many prototype designs of frock. Practise makes a man perfect. Practise not only makes a person perfect but also yields utmost satisfaction. With a sound knowledge and skill, one can become a successful entrepreneur. Good designs with taste and beautiful colour/fabric combinations, adorned with trimmings and decorations are the secrets of a successful and popular fashion designer.

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Books

  • Practical Clothing Construction – Part I-Basic Sewing Processes – Mary Mathews
  • Practical Clothing Construction – Part II- Designing, Drafting and Tailoring – Mary Mathews
  • Fashion Production Terms – Debbie Ann Gioello and Beverly Berke Zarapker System of cutting – Shri K R Zarapker