16 Prototype Development: Children’s baba suit
V. Krishnaveni
PROTOTYPE DEVELOPMENT: CHILDREN’S BABA SUIT 1. INTRODUCTION
The requirement of infant garment is mounting day by day according to the seasons and also fashion changes. This is very simple to fabricate and effortlessly marketable both in urban and rural areas. There are different varieties garments are used for children’s and some garments are worn by both – babysuit, romper and sunsuit of children’s purposes. In the types of garment, the baba suit garment plays a major role in all categories of wears such as casual, formal, party and elegant wears. A baba suit is a two or three pieces combination garment of shorts, bib and a shirt. This garment especially worn by the boys age groups of three year and above. The Baba suit is constructed always with half sleeves shirt and knicker with bib attachment.
- LEARNING OBJECTIVES
- Importance and types of children’s apparel designing
- To know about the methods of developing prototype model of baby suit
- Understand the outline of various steps involved in drafting and construction of baba suit with variations
- HISTORY AND EVOLUTION
The babsuit is first designed in America in the early 1900s. This is derived from the basic romper pattern “Sunsuit”. This is a famous garment which is in used during the Moghul period. After the over a period of time the Pakisthan, Burma, and China were copied this pattern and converted with slight modification named as Baba suit. This garment is very much popular as party wear for young and toddlers children b ecause more number of styles can be introduced in the sleeveless styles, susbender belt, kincker styles.
- SELECTION OF FABRIC AND BABA SUIT STYLES
Babasuit is a bodice full length and lower kincker pattern is extending till before the mid thigh . The selection of fabric is mainly based on variation in styles of babasuit . The bib attached with bottom knickers provides the graceful look and comfort.
4.1 Factors to be considered while selecting fabric and styles for baba suit
When it comes to choosing the right fabric materials and styles for baba suit it is very important to consider the following factors, because the action movements will be more at a point of period.
- Combination of blend of fibers.
- Fabric construction and its performance. Post fabric finishing processes imparted. Fashion and season
- Occasion, event, activity and location. Style features and suspenders length Figure type and pattern design
- Budget
- Type and time of wear
4.2 Specific Tools and materials required for constructing babsuit
- Pattern paper Marking chalk
- Scissors
- Carbon and tracing wheel Sewing machine
- Needle
- Bobbin case Bobbin
- Thread
- Canvas fabric or fusing material.
4.3 Fibers and fabrics suitable for developing babasuit
There are different styles of babasuit are available in a different kind of fabrics. It is important to consider by the own their preference on choosing natural or synthetic fibres. The hundred percent cotton is a natural fibre and it is a most popular choice for babasuit . The variety of cotton blends and synthetic blends used commonly used namely, georgette, cambric, crepe, rayon, damask satin materials. Poplin, Rubea , Lone, Cambric, Terricott and Corduroy materials.
5. CONCEPTS/ FACTORS FOR DESIGNING A BABA SUIT
The important factors to be considered while designing of babsuit for different enduse is the primary focus; but design approaches to these may vary with the age of the child. Then durability is the another important factor for play clothes and outerwear garments , whereas uniqueness and decoration of party dresses. The factors to be considered are
- Type and kind of Design Age group
- Fabric patterns Fashion
- Comfort, Safety,
- Appearance of garment Ease of care
- PROTOTYPE DEVELOPMENT OF BABA SUIT MANUFACTURING PROCESS
The prototype development of baba suit is patterned and constructed by several method ofoperations. The new style of baba suit pattern will be developed with the following steps including
- Designing,
- Patterning,
- Sampling
- Cutting,
- Assembling
- Construction flow process
- Trims and decoration,
- Finishing of garment
- 1) DESIGNING OF BABA SUIT
This is baba suit design consists of garment features like bodice, knicker , suspender attachment, plain half decorative roundnecklineand attachment at knicker, Belt with attachment various bib with sleeves, pocket Velcro.
6.2) FLAT PATTERNING OF BABA SUIT-. PATTERNING AND GARMENT CONSTRUCTION
The key process of patterning is an basic art of manipulating and shaping a fabric to fit the exact curves of the human body and its depends on the silhouette of any garment. Pattern making is the intermediate process between garment design and garment construction. A pattern for a particular style of a garment is developed by using the body measurement and a set of instructions to develop the basic block. The accurate body measurement, patterns and adaptation forms the foundation o f successful garment. The bodice and kincker babasuit pattern can be adapted and transformed into various workable designs based on silhouettes, dart and pleats and panels.
6.2.1 Important Measurements Required for drafting Baba suit :
The various measurements are needed for drafting the bodice, sleeve, knicker and bib pattern of baba suit.
FOR BODICE PATTERN- The measurements are
-• Shoulder | -3” |
• Front length | -10” |
• Back width | -9” |
• Back waist length | -9” |
• Shirt length | -18” |
• Neck circumference | -4” |
FOR SLLEEVE PATTERN- The measurements are
• Short sleeve length | -4.5” |
• Lower arm circumference | -8” |
FOR KNICKER PATTERN- The measurements are
• Waist | -18” |
•Hip | -21” |
• Waist to hip | – 4” |
• Thigh circumference | -2” |
• Crotch length | -2.5” |
• Knicker length | – 8” |
FOR BIB PATTERN- The measurements are
• Bib Length | – 4” |
• Bib Width | – 4” |
• Suspenders length | – 15” |
Shape of bib can be modified according to the fashion and style
6.2.2. SAMPLING OF FABRIC REQUIREMENTS FOR BABASUIT
The estimation of fabric requirement for babsuit is calculated according the to the style of design and width of fabrics taken .
6.2.1 Fabric Calculation based on width of Fabric:
- For 36” wide Fabric material: {2 x (Full Length) + Waist band length}
- For 40” wide Fabric material – {(Full Length) + Waist band length}
- More than 40” wide fabrics : One Full Length
6.2.2. Formula for calculating fabric for Baba suit:
The Fabric width of =36” is taken for our construction of shirt with plain bodice, plain knicker, plain sleeve, square bib with suspender
• Shirt length+5”=23”
• Baba suit with sleeve and collar:
• Shirt length +sleeve length+6”=28.5”
• knicker length +6”=14.5”
• Bib length-2”=6”
Total fabric requirement – Twice shirt length+ sleeve length + knicker length+ bib+9”=90.5”
6.3) DRAFTING PROCEDURE FOR BABASUIT
The standard drafting procedure is followed for developing babasuit pattern. The procedure flow process will vary according to the type pattern to be developed .The development of pattern which has ease allowances in the drafting procedure itself. After pattering, only the seam allowances will be added according to the requirement of fitting.
6.3.1) DRAFTING PROCEDURE FOR DEVELOPING BASIC BODICE PATTERN
The various steps of instructions are followed for pattern development- Draw the rectangle of ABCD with the following measurements
- AB=1/4(chest + 5” ease allowance as per design requirement
- AD=BC=back waist length+1/2”.
- Mark AG=1/2 back width
- Mark the line AF=1/12 Chest and AH=1” at a time
- Mark the point of AJ=1/12 chest+1/4”= AF+1/4”
- Mark and connect GK=1”
- Join the points of back neck line HF
- Connect the front neck line JF with dotted line
- Connect the shoulder seam.FK with a straight line
- Then Mark BL=1/4 chest=5” on the pattern
- Draws GO parallel to and equal to BL.
- Mark KX=1/3 KO and XY=1/2”. Joint the armscye lines
- Connect back armscye line KXL with a bold line.
- oMark the point CM=1/2”.
Then connect LM for side seam line marking.
After patterning, mark the details on the pattern like the onfold line, grain line, pattern name, garment name , cut no, layout details, pattern name, seam allowances details.
6.3.2) DRAFTING PROCEDURE FOR DEVELOPING BASIC PLAIN SLEEVE PATTERN
The various steps of instructions are followed for pattern development- First draw rectangle ABCD with the following measurements
- Mark the points AB=1/4(chest -1.5” ease allowance)
- Then mark AD=BC= Sleeve length+1/2”.
- Mark AE=1/2 of AB on the line
- CE=1/2 of Lower arm circumference measurements – 1”
- Take BE Line and divide the line in to three equal parts namely A, B, C.
- AA1=1/4” BB1=1/4” CC1=1/4” CC2=1/2”
- Join the points BE with a bold line
- Connect B, a, b, c1 &E with dotted line for back arm hole line.
- Connect B, a1, b1,c2 & E with a Curved line for back arm hole line.
Then mark the details on the pattern like the onfold line, grain line, pattern name, garment name , cut no, layout details, pattern name, seam allowances details.
6.3.3) DRAFTING PROCEDURE FOR DEVELOPING BASIC KNICKER PATTERN
The various steps of instructions to be followed for pattern development- First draw rectangle ABCD with the following measurements
- Mark the line AB=1/4(waist + 3” ease allowance)
- Mark the points AD=BC=knicker length+1/2”.
- Mark AE=1/2 Hip=4.5” and DF=1/4 Hip
- EG=1/4” and EH=1/2” with dotted line on the pattern Join EGF with a bold line for back crotch line.
- Connect the front crotch line EHF with dotted line.
- After patterning, mark all the details on the pattern like the onfold line, grain line, pattern name, garment name , cut no, layout details, pattern name, seam allowances details.
6.3.4.) DRAFTING PROCEDURE FOR DEVELOPING BASIC BIB PATTERN
The various steps of instructions to be followed for pattern development- First draw rectangle ABCD with the following measurements
- First mark AB=1/4(chest -2.5” ease allowance)
- Mark AD=BC= BIB length+1/2”.
- Mark AE=1/4 of AB then mark DF= 1” at a time Connect BEDF with a bold curved for bib shape
After patterning, mark all the details on the pattern like the onfold line, grain line, pattern name, garment name , cut no, layout details, pattern name, seam allowances details
6.3.5) STANDARD SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR PATTERNS
o Mark ¼” for shoulder and neckline
o Mark 3” for knicker hem • Leave 1” for sleeve hem.
o Mark ½” for all other seams
6.4) PATTERN LAYOIT AND CUTTING
The laying of fabric is mainly based on the foldable pattern required for construction. The open fold layout which commonly used for all the garments. But lengthwise and crosswise fold will be suitable for children’s garment pattern layout. After laying the , the fabric samples to be cur either manual cutting or machine cutting methods. The following steps for cutting the fabric are
First fold the fabric lengthwise to become double layer with wrong side facing each other. Place the paper pattern on top of it, pin. Mark the seam allowance on the fabric Trace sewing lines and markings on the fabric by using carbon and tracing wheel. Cut fabric out according to the front and back pattern Then mark and tack all the pattern separately ans send it for sewing process.
6.5. GARMENTS COMPONENTS FOR SEWING
Before going for sewing process, first check what the garment components are to be sewed. Based on the type and list of components only, the construction flow process will be decided. So the flat pattern design of baba suit consist of the following garment components namely
- Front bodice pattern
- Back bodice pattern
- Front and back Sleeve pattern
- Front and back knicker
- Bib pattern
- Suspender strap
- Neckline shape bias pattern
- Pocket piece pattern
6.6) CONSTRUCTION FLOW PROCESS FOR BABASUIT
The construction will be done based on the sequential order of components to be added in the basic silhouette of garment pattern. As per the patterning, the components to be stitched one by one with selected type of sewing machine, needle, thread, seam type and stitch type. Depending the type of seam stitched on the hem line, the machine and type of seam will be selected accordingly.
6.6.1 ) CONSTRUCTION FLOW PROCESS FOR SHIRT
The step by step construction flow process of bodice or shirt as follows
- SUMMARY
Finally let me conclude about the patterning and prototype development of babasuit for boy children wear.. The Baba suit is a combination of top and bottom garment with suspender attachment. Cotton and georgette are supreme material for developing conventional styles of baba suit for especially party wears . The consumption of the fabric depends on the size, width of fabric, style features and budget. We have also understood about the measurements, drafting steps, components and construction flow process involved in the drafting and construction of Baba suit. Finally, we have learnt the technique of pattern development and sewing skills elemental for prototype development of baba suit.
you can view video on Prototype Development: Children’s baba suit |
References
- Debbie Ann Gioello (2002): Understanding fabrics: From Fibre to Finished cloth, Fairchild Publications, New York.
- Helen Joseph-Armstrong (1995): Pattern making for fashion Design. Prentice Hall,
- Winifred Aldrich (2011): Metric pattern cutting for childrens wear, Blackwell Science Ltd., London.
Web links
- https://quizlet.com/124458075/pattern-making-terms-flash-cards/
- http://www.startsewing.co.uk/patternterminology.html
- https://www.trishnewbery.com/knowledge/patternmaking/patternmaking-terminology/
- http://textileclothingmaterials.blogspot.in/2009/07/pattern-drafting-glossary-terms.html
- http://iftekharrahman.weebly.com/uploads/2/6/4/2/26428189/terms_of_pattern_making_22-04-14.pdf
- https://makersrow.com/blog/2015/04/a-z-glossary-on-apparel-manufacturing/ http://www.madehow.com/Volume-4/Children-s-Clothing.html
- https://www.slideshare.net/anithabala/baby-frock