11 Fashion Accessories – II
R. Shanthi
1. Introduction
Fashion Accessories is big business today. Huge trade shows are being organized with global participants and many accessory designers and manufacturers participate to exhibit their products. Asia Pacific Leather Fair 2017 held during March 29-31st showcased a wide array of bonded and synthetic materials, shoe components, fashion hardware and accessories, advanced technologies and manufacturing equipment. There were 16,948 visitors for the trade show with 11 seminars and workshops on accessory design and development [APLF, 2017]. The next APLF Leather and Materials + the world’s leading trade fair to be scheduled between March 13-15, 2019 at Hong Kong. The materials sector caters to demand by supplying innovations in smart components and advanced materials for the different markets and serves as a sourcing ground for thousands of international buyers and design developers.
2. Learning Objectives:
- Gain knowledge on Fashion accessories and its types
- Understand the production processes followed in the manufacture of Fashion Accessories
- Learn about the care and maintenance of accessories
This module will throw light on a few accessories namely hats, jewellery, handbags, scarfs, belts and umbrellas.
3. Hats
Hats are head coverings worn for reasons like protection from weather, ceremonial reasons or as a fashion accessory. Official historical records of hats have been found during the bronze age in Europe and in Egypt dated around 3200BC(Village Hats, 2017; Wikipedia 2017). In France hats were made by chapeliers; today hats for men are made by hat makers while hats for women are made by milliners (Thomas,2014). Many milliners like Gabrielle Channel, Rose Bertin and Jeanne Lanvin have become leading fashion designers in giant fashion houses. Historic hats were a symbol of prestige and status whereas the current day ‘hat’ gives a cool and confident look. Ms. Liesa Aiken, Retail fashion director in Net-a-Porter states that the sale of hats is expanding in Asia and there has been an increase in revenue by 14% year over year in China (Financial Review, 2017).
3.1. Components of a hat
A hat consists of the following parts:
- Crown : the part which covers the head completely
- Crease : may not be seen in all hats but found on the top of the crown
- Pinch/ Dent: is a shallow hollow that is used to hold the
- hat while wearing it on the head
- Band: fond at the base of crown and top of band, is a decorative trimming which adds the completeness to the hat
- Brim: is found at the bottom of the crown and serves to shade the eyes and face while worn
- Roll : is the turned up part of the brim. Snap buttons usually keep the roll in place and may be positioned as the wishes of the wearer – shallow roll, medium roll or full roll up.
- Sweatband : is found on the inside of the hat and is worn over the forehead.
3.2. The production processes
The production process consists of design, manufacturing process and Quality Control. The 3 most important considerations in designing a cowboy hat is the slope of the crown, the roll of the brim and the number and arrangement of the creases of the hat. A manual or CAD design is developed; ornamentation is decided and blocked by the hatter.
The manufacturing process consists of
- Carroting, cutting and sorting:Beaver, rabbit and wild hare pelts are used for hat manufacturing. Carroting is application of acid solution to fur to prepare for the felting process. The skin is cut away from the fur by cutting machines, sorted by blowing and
picking machines for blending of fibers.
- Felt mixing and initial shaping: After cleaning, 3 types of fur are mixed into a fine blend then broken down by passing the raw material through a feeder for a softer blend; this is followed by forwarding the fur into the blowing machine where the bad fibers are removed. The mixture is converted into long sheet by the use of presses. A dome shaped prototype called ‘former dome’ spins rapidly for 30 seconds and gathers much fur fibers from the long sheets which are blown onto the dome similar to the cotton candy technique. The fur fiber wrapped former dome is placed in hot water for 35 seconds to mould the fibers.
- Felting and Dyeing: involves a number of applications of hot water, pressure and rolling called as ‘starting’ and ‘stumping’ where the dome shaped figure is dipped in hot water and twisted. The hat body is then hardened [four times] with the help of the hardening machine. This causes felting or shrinkage and the hat attains its original size. Various pigments are
used to create a range of colours through dyeing.
- Initial blocking and pouncing:Blocking is three fold – a tipper stretches the crown of the hat, the brimmer makes the band and brim, the blocker sets the shape of the hat with a stiffening agent. The hat is turned inside out and allowed to dry. Back shop: the hat issanded with emery paper to remove excess surface hair if any called ‘pouncing’. The band is stitched at the junction of the crown and brim.
- Western blocking and finishing :Steaming, shaping, pouncing and softener powder application to improve handle and colour followed by heat setting of the brim
- Fixing of sweat band and final cutting of brim
- Creasing and miscellaneous detailing are the final steps of manufacture
- Quality checks are made for finish, shape, body and feel of the hat. Quality of the felt is based on fur and types, animal living environment, age of fur and color (How hats are made, 2017).
3.3. Hat Styles
- Fedora – a felt hat with pinched sides and a long crease at the crown
- Pork pie – is a shorter version without a crease in the crown, pinched at the sides for triangular or wedge shaped front
- Derby – a stiff round hat with narrow rolled brim, also known as Bowler.
- Western Hat – called as cowboy hat worn by western ranchers; has a high crown and broad brim.
- Boater – flat topped straw hat with wide brim
- Top Hat – is a hat with tall crown and broad rolled brim
- Slouch – soft hat with centre crease and turned down brim.
- Turban – a soft headwear constructed as a draped style
- Baseball cap – a round fitted cap with several triangular gores or inserts and finished with a peak in the front (Antonio, 2017).
3.4. Care of Hats
Felt and straw models should be stored in boxes which are large enough and does not crush the shape of the hat. It should have stuffing in the sides to help to retain the shape. Professional cleaning is advisable and reblocking will tend to retain the shape after a while. Knitted and soft hats may be stored in shelves. Fur hats need airing and brushing with a good quality pet brush taking care to retain the directional lustre. Linings can be removed and cleaned separately. Leather hats can be cleaned with a soft bristle brush; can use the leather protector spray; do not store leather in plastic bag as it will trap moisture and promote mildew; store in cloth bag or brown paper cover. When a hat looses its new lookapply commercial leather conditioner or dressing spray (Leverette, 2017).
4. Jewellery
Jewellery is any adornmentattached to the body or clothes often worn to enhance beauty. They include brooches, rings, necklaces, earrings and bracelets. According to the science reporter of BBC news the oldest pieces of jewellery, three shell beads that date back to 90,000 to 100,000 years old. Two were found in the Skhul cave of Mount Caramel in Israel while the third one was from the site of OuedDjebbana in Algeria. All the three had similar holes showing that it was strung together into a necklace or bracelet (Rincon 2006).Different parts of the globe like Egypt, Greece and Rome, show historic jewellery and different periods in history reveal the unique designs of the era eg. Romanticism, Renaissance, Art Nouveau, Art Deco of the 18th century. All types of raw materials from natural sources, metals and stones have been used; 20th century jewellery has seen many innovative methods likeJapanese Mokume-gane, hydraulic die forming, anti-clastic raising, fold forming, metal anodising, precious metal clay[PMC], Art Clay Silver [ACS], photoetching and use of CAD/CAM (Mc Crieght, 2006).
4.1. Production Techniques
Conversion of manual or CAD drawing into jewellery involves processes like hand crafting, die striking and casting. However the use of expertise, ingenuity and dexterous hands can create artistic pieces in both precious and costume jewellery. Some of the production methods are given in Table 1.
Table 1 – Production techniques for jewellery
4.2. Stone settings forJewellery
Stone settings are important for the final appearance of the jewellery and are dependent on the value of the stone, fix durability and the final appearance of the finished product. The setting type refers to the metal base that holds the stone in place. Though stone settings are very many a few of the most important settings are given in Fig.2.
- Micro setting – is the setting of multiple stoned under the microscope showing a very small distance between the stones. Helps to get an even surface with many rows of diamonds.
- Prong setting: has 4 or 6 prongs bent over a faceted gem stone with maximum exposure to light; larger size gemstone require double prong setting for good security
- Pave setting : variation of the prong setting where the gemstone is set into the metal with the help of grains; theses grains are pulled up from the metal and pushed against the gemstone, which is rhodium coated, to create continuous radiance
- Channel Setting: here gem stones are suspended between two metal strips called channels and secured by closing in the upper sides of the channel walls with a hammer.
- Bezel Setting:thin rims of plain or designed metal completely or partially encircle thegemstone suitable for flat backed stones like cameos or cabochons.
- Pressure / Tension Setting: here the center stone is surrounded by a group of stones; the pressure of the gold against the stone holds it in place. The center and surrounding stones look like all in one piece.
- Invisible Setting: the metal used for setting is invisible. The cut gemstones are grooved below the girdle and kept on metal tracks very close together with little or no space between them.
- Illusion Setting: highly polished metal edges bent around the stone present an illusion of being part of the stone
- Flush Setting: here the gem stone is beneath the surface of the metal band and is highly secure and protected from wear (Diamondere, 2017; Krikawa, 2017).
4.3. Jewellery Styles
Rings: are ornaments that encircle the fingers and made of many materials
Bracelets: ornaments that encircle the arm or wrists like bangles which may be clip type or with metal links or charms; ankle bracelets or anklets are also known as slave bracelets worn around the ankle.
Necklaces: found in different lengths and materials. Close fitting types around the neck is choker which lands on the collar bone; multi stranded necklaces are called bibs; longer lengths[22 to 23” length] are matinee necklaces; opera necklaces range from 32- 42”;
Brooches: ornaments with pin backings and include lapel pins, stick pins etc. Barrettes are clips worn on the hair. Cuff links are used with French cuffs.
Earrings: are ornaments with clips or screw backs while some are pierced into the earlobe and kept in place with screws and clamps. Ball or button ear rings and drop ear rings and extra length sizes called chandeliers. Earing jackets are those which are fixed around the studs.
Tiara : crowns worn over the head Pendants, Watch bands, Shirt studs are some of the other varieties of jewellery used as accessories
5. Hand bags
The Mariam Webster dictionary defines hand bag as a fashionably designed small bag or pouch that is handheld or hung from a shoulder strap, used for carrying personal articles and money. Hand bags may be categorised by the shoulder strap length as Tote, Crossbody, Sling bag, Shoulder bag and Clutch; categorization may also be according to the utilitarian needs like laptop purse, Gym bag, Cosmetic bag, Duffle bag, Camera bag etc.
5.1. Parts of a Hand bag
- A metal frame supports a textile or leather bag
- Gussets that provides for expansion at the side and front
- Lining covers the inner parts of the bag for neat appearance Handles of different lengths and materials
- Closures which may be buckles, zippers, locks, clasps, snaps and Velcro
- The production of a handbag starts with the manual sketching or CAD drawing of the design and prototype development. Once the bag is approved the patterns are cut individually in the case of leather or die cut in fabric for bulk production. The components of the bag are stitched followed by the insertion of stiffening materials between the bag and lining; the bag is fitted to a frame and made ready to receive the handles, ornamentation and closures.
5.2 Styles in Handbags
- Hobo : medium sized crescent shaped bag with a top zipper with a drop at the center
- Baguette : named after a French loaf of bread – a small narrow rectangular shaped purse
- Duffle : a cylindrical bag with top closure and handles, carried over the shoulder
- Shopper : large bag with handles for carrying belongings
- Wrislet : a small handbag with a short strap resembling a bracelet
- Messenger : like the bags used by messengers delivering mail; case like bag with one long strap
- Clutch: a handbag without handles, rectangular shape and can have a detachable chain strap
- Satchel : soft sided leather case
- Tote : large bag with two straps and open top
- Bucket bag : medium to large sized bucket like bag with shoulder strap and draw string closure
6. Scarfs
Scarves can create different looks when worn along with the dress from refreshing to classic. Commonly known as muffler, Kremer or neck wrap this piece of fabric is worn around the neck, head, waist or shoulder for different reasons like warmth, religion, rank, fashion etc. It was worn by the Romans and known as ‘sudarium’ and became very popular in the 19th and 20th century as a fashion statement for both men and women.
Raw material is fabric made from natural fibers like cotton and silk or from blends with synthetic fibers. Screen or block printed, dyed or printed fabric is cut and sewn around the edges either by hand or machine. Ornamentation includes sequins, beads, fringes or any other trimmings to enhance the appearance of the scarf.
6.1. Styles :
7. Belts:
Belt may be explained as a strip of material worn at the waist to support and hold the clothes in position or to carry weapons. The world’s most expensive belt is Republica Fashion’s Gucci 30 karat diamond belt (Trending topmost, 2017). Logos and brand names,Gucci & Liz Claiborne, have brought belts into the fashion market. Raw materials include leather, fabric, leucite, metals and vinyl.
Belt components include
- Belt panel – a rectangular long length of any raw material eg. Leather
- Tip – is the outer edge which may be shaped as a rectangle or tipped rectangle Belt loop – to hold the extra length of the belt in position
- Buckle with tongue – which helps to lock the belt in position around the waist or hip
- Small holes a given in the panel for the entry of the tongue to adjust the circumference of the belt according to requirement
- Top stitch – is a row of stitching given to seal the edges of the panel from fraying
7.1. Belt Construction
A belt is made of two panels stitched together with a buckle, punch holes and tongue to hold the belt in position. Design development with manual or CAD system is developed and the designs are selected for bulk production. The two panels are cut and stitched together by a walking foot machine or by glue; decorative elements are added, holes punched and buckles completed. Elasticated belts and chain link metallic are used to produce a contour fit.
7.2. Belt Styles
- Cinch : elasticated material fitted with a buckle or snap closure
- Contour : shaped to fit the form of the wearer
- Cummerbund : A wide fabric belt at front and narrow at the back
- Link : Metallic pieces or chains interlocked to form belts which may be expandable
- Rope : A tie cord around the waist
- Sash : A piece of fabric wrapped around the waist
- Self : Any style of belt made of the apparel fabric with no differentiation to the dress worn.
8. Umbrellas:
In Latin, ‘Umbra’ means shade and ‘sol’ means sun and these two are used
interchangeably since the eighteenth century. Since then ‘parasol’ denotes a shade that protects against the sun and are more rigid while umbrella is collapsible and serves as protection from the rain. The use of umbrella dates back to more than 4000 years in civilizations like Assyria, Egypt, Rome and China. Slowly they were used in Europe and England and today small, functional and collapsible umbrellas are popular (Konig, 2017).
8.1.Components of an Umbrella:
- Frame : the metal form on which the umbrella is built
- Ribs: metal supports that helps to hold the cover of the umbrella and may vary from 8 – 16 rods
- Canopy: the fabric or vinyl cover spread over the ribs of the umbrella
- Spreaders : the rods that move up and down during opening or closure
- Finial : decorative or conical top of the umbrella
8.2.Umbrella Styles :
- Stick : long, narrow umbrella that fits into a tube with closures on top
- Automatic: either mounted on a stick or collapsible with a shaft that reaches full length with the release of a button
- Bubble : a vinyl canopy which is dome shaped
- Ballerina : a canopy with ruffles at the outer edge
- Collapsible : stored at half the size when not in use and reaches full length when required with a button
- Golf: an oversized umbrella with added coverage for special occasions and promotional activities.
- High tech umbrellas : Senz umbrella – aerodynamic design prevents wetting of back and can withstand winds up to 70mph; Wimbrella- allows only wind to pass through not rain; Wi-Fi Camera Umbrella – comes with GPS and digital compass, takes picture and projects it on the canopy with the flick of the wrist; special umbrella with inbuilt pencil, Flask or sword.
- Conclusion:
In the previous module an introduction was given about Fashion Accessories and footwear and gloves were discussed in detail .This module has covered fashion accessories like hats, jewelry, handbags, scarfs, belts and umbrellas. The component parts, production process, styles, care and maintenance of each accessory will help one to understand how to incorporate them into the ensemble and also understand the impact of the accessories on the wearer. These basics can also be used to create new styles and attractively blend them with the suit or evening dress or any other garment. Fashionable women and celebrities are noticed not only by the clothes they wear but also by the accessories that are worn to enhance the beauty and glamour of their image and outlook. Young fashion designers can use accessories as tools to work with in creating new and vibrant combinations and amalgamations.
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Web links
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgGnxSgEmbI
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7T7G3W7ssFU
- https://www.pinterest.co.uk/thestylemine/creative-explosion/
- https://in.pinterest.com/lisajhooper/sketchbook-ideas/?lp=true
- https://in.pinterest.com/dacostajeanfran/carnet/?lp=true
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kr5kyr4s89Y https://www.creativebloq.com/web-design/grid-theory-41411345
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knkvhBAUkd8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PlJuZYL8vDc
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouy0kcy1-u4