29 Computer Application in the Apparel Industry

R. Sheela John

30.1 Introduction

Computers have occupied a prominent place in all the apparel industries in this era. Computers technologies increases efficiency, saves time and produces valuable products as desired by the manufacturer, consumer or the buyer as the case may be. Computer is an electronic device that accepts data, processes data and the retrieves the same whenever needed. In this module the eminent presence of computers and its applications in the apparel industry is described briefly

30.2 Learning Outcome:

• Gain knowledge about the computer applications in the apparel Industry
• Learn the definitions and functions of CAD, CAM, CIM, ERP, Quick response system and Real time merchandising

30.3 Applications of Computers in Apparel industry

The role of computers in the apparel industry is witnessed in many areas. They are listed as follows

Textile Design Systems – This includes designing and creating different weaves, knits and prints

Computer Colour matching systems – A colour matching system measures the depth of the colour and also compares the dyed fabric with the original sample. It can also suggest recipes for the dyes and chemicals.

Fabric Defect Checking Systems – The fabric is inspected for defects with the help of scanning device.

Garment Designing – The designer creates fashion sketches and adds varieties of texture  to  it.   Digital  fashions  can  be  created  in  the  2dimensional  form  and 3dimensional form.  2d garment designing is similar to the drawing of a sketch in a paper.  In 3d designing the process is similar to the draping of fabric on a mannequin.

The mannequin or the human model in the 3d form can be animated to perform a ramp walk. The garment can thus be viewed in all the angles.

3D Body Scanning – 3D body scanners scans the human body and records the dimensions of the individual. The body measurements of the individual can be taken with greatest accuracy. This is a very important step that enables the designer to create garments with good fit.

PDS systems – Pattern making, grading and marker planning can be done using PDS systems. Patterns can be drafted with ease and accuracy using flat pattern techniques. The block patterns or basic patterns can be graded to different sizes. The marker planning or lay planning can be efficiently done in the computer and the same can be printed using a plotter.

Digitising systems – The manual patterns can be converted into the digital pattern with the help of the digitiser. The digital patterns can be graded and used for marker planning

Computerised Cutting – The cutting / marker plan made using the PDS system is loaded in automated cutting machine. The cutting takes place without a human hand. The computerised cutting machine cuts the fabric into pattern blocks as prescribed by the marker plan.

Computerised sewing machines – Sewing machines have programmed operations that help in increasing the production. It also aids in improving / maintaining the quality of the product.

Made-to-measure systems – this is ideal for tailored garments. The measurements are entered into the PDS software which prepares patterns and marker plan for the desired style. This aids in mass production of tailored garments. The full size patterns can be printed using plotters. The customer’s measurement can be saved and used for manufacturing of other styles in future.

Embroidery Systems – New embroidery designs can be created in the system. The design can be tested for various colour combinations before finalising on a colour scheme. The CAD designs can be embroidered in the fabric using computer controlled embroidery machine in a few minutes.

Administration – The work flow and the entire production plan can be created and maintained in the system. This helps in the effective co-ordination of different departments.

Virtual Marketing – Consumer gets to see the products displayed before they are developed virtual products in virtual stores. The internet is a form of virtual store. To market a product there in reality, there is no need to physically produce the product, what is needed is an electronic representation of the product.

Quick Response System – The designer is connected to the retailers where he gains information about the consumer’s interest. Based on the response, the product can be eliminated or replaced or given more importance. Quick response reduces the lead time between the manufacturer and the retailer.

Internet and Information Explosion – This helps the fashion designers, fashion design faculty members / students, fashion leaders and fashion followers to be in line with the latest trend.

30.4 CAD, CAM, CIM, CAA and PPC

The application of computers can be better understood if the role of CAD, CAM, CIM, CAA and PPC are understood. The details of the same are discussed below

30.4.1 CIM – Definition and functions

30.4.2 CAD – Definition and functions

30.4.3 CAM – Definition and functions

30.4.4 CAA – Definition and functions

30.4.5 PPC – Definition and functions

30.4.1 CIM – Definition and functions

Computer Integrated Manufacturing (CIM) integrates the functions of CAD/CAM and other activities like PPC and CAA. CAD and CAM comprise of designing and manufacturing. PPC refers to the production planning and control whereas CAA means computer aided administration. CAD and CAM systems are usually integrated. The garment unit has many departments and handles a variety of operations starting with receiving an order from the buyer to the production of garments and finally the shipment of goods. The production in a  garment unit takes place in various departments like sampling section, cutting section, sewing section, finishing section and packing section. The plan for the production cannot be a standalone operation. It involves coordination and data supply which is possible only when the activities are computerised and integrated. The illustration given below shows the working model of CIM.

Computer Aided Design (CAD) – computers are used for developing designs, pattern making, pattern grading, marker planning.

Computer Aided Manufacture (CAM) – computers are used for fabric inspection, spreading, cutting, sewing and pressing.

Computer Aided Administration (CAA) – computers are used for marketing, sales order processing and stock control.

Production Planning and Control (PPC) – Computers are used for planning the production of a product and monitoring the quality of production

The CIM thus serves as connectivity between departments. The entry of order obtained from the buyer is the first step. The order will give the all the details of the garments to be manufactured. This is made available to the sampling department where the patterns are prepared and graded. The marker plans are also created in the PDS system.

The details of the fabric inspection, the date, time and the number of defects makes way for spreading and cutting. The sampling section provides the cutting department with the marker/cutting plan. The sewing section will have a continuous supply of cut pieces for sewing. This stitched garment is trimmed in the finishing section and is moved to the pressing and packaging departments In every department the work plan is created. All the plans will be synchronised and checked to avoid repetition of jobs and breaks in-between the production process. With this integrated plan the workflow is streamlined and number of persons working in the concern can be easily equated to the number required. This helps in preventing hiring of excess labour and shortage of labour.

CIM ensures that the materials required are available for the production through computerised Production Planning and Scheduling (PPC). CIM leads to the automation of the all the process / activities of the company.

30.4.2 CAD – Definition and Functions

Computer-aided design (CAD) can be defined as an activity where the designs are created using computers. The computerised designing involves the use of CAD software. The general purpose CAD software commonly used for garment deigning are paint brush, coreldraw, adobe photoshop, autocad, 3D studio max and so on. Garment designs can also be done on customised software like lectra, gerber, tukacad, vidhya etc., The following are the reasons for using a computer-aided design

1. The designer is able to create, recreate or modify designs faster and easier with CAD. In apparel industry CAD refers to garment designs, fabric designs, pattern making, grading marker planning etc.,
2. The designer can create a design and at the same time is able to provide variety of alternatives like variation in colour, texture and styles with ease. Thus quality and quantity of the design is enhanced with CAD
3. CAD designs can be stored for a longer period of time without damage. It can be retrieved whenever required. It is stored in a virtual space and hence does not occupy floor space.
4. The CAD designs also serve as data base for the manufacture the product though CAM.

   Functions of CAD

A typical CAD system consists of the following components – One or more design workstations, processor, secondary storage and plotter and / or other output devices. Computer Aided Design (CAD) is used for developing designs, pattern making, pattern grading and marker planning.

Creation Designs – Textile designs for weaving, knitting printing, embroidery and garment designing (2D and 3D) can easily done with CAD.

Pattern Making – Patterns for garments can be drafted using Pattern Design Systems (PDS). Preparation of pattern making involves mathematical skills and is a complicated process by nature. Thanks to CAD this process is made easy.

Pattern Grading – This is also complicated process like pattern making involving x, y and z axis. The increase or decrease of patterns is simpler with CAD. In the apparel industry, the garments are manufactured for three or more sizes.

Marker Planning – Efficient marker plan helps in fabric reduction and therefore the fabric cost. Economic marker can be easily achieved by arranging and rearranging the pattern pieces in the specific width. The sizes to be cut and number of layers of fabric to be spread is determined in marker / lay planning.

30.4.3 CAM – Definition and Functions

When the manufacturing process is computerised or automated, it is termed as Computer-aided manufacturing (CAM). The main areas where CAM is used in the apparel industry are discussed as follows.

Fabric Manufacture – This include the creation of woven, knitted and printed fabrics in computer controlled machines.

Fabric Inspection – In this process the rolls of fabric are measured after subjecting it to fabric inspection. Here the computer scans the fabric and identifies the defects and presents the same as a report.

Cutting – computerised marker plans are loaded in the automated cutting machine, which operates without a human hand. This cutting head has cutting drill and notcher’s in addition to the straight knife.

Sewing – In the Computer controlled sewing machines, the operator positions the fabric on the machine and the machine automatically sews the fabrics. The special functions like button-hole making, button fixing and bar tacking also can be done more precisely.

Embroidery – The CAD designs instructs the machine to in selection of stitches and colours and accordingly the design is embroidered.

Pressing – the pressing of the fabric under the specified temperature and pressure and finally folding the garment to the required size is made easier thanks to the CAM

Testing – The fibres, yarns and fabrics are tested for its physical, chemical and colourfastness properties in the digitised testing machines

The manufacture of woven designs, knitted designs and prints can be done faster and made easier with CAM.

30.4.4 CAA – Definitions and functions

Computer Aided Administration is inevitable in the office administration mainly for accounting, wages, and logistics etc., The functions of the CAA in the apparel industry may  be listed as follows – Personnel, marketing, order processing, purchase, stock control, costing and accounting.

Order Processing:

Modern apparel distribution centres use computerized storage and picking system that they rely on bar-coding for storage and retrieval of garments when needed to fill orders. Computer system permits integration of many of the ordering and distribution process. In Customer order processing (COP) software, orders are entered into the computer and the COP system produces bar code labels that when scanned can produce packing slips, bills of loading or invoices. This system can stand alone or can be integrated with the apparel production and / inventory control systems such as these reduce administrative costs and assure more accurate delivery or products to the customers.

Purchasing:

Purchasing include the sourcing of fabric, accessories, and stationery. This procedure involves the preparing specifications of suppliers along with the cost for the goods. Accessories include sewing thread, laces, satin ribbon and buttons. Stationeries and other miscellaneous things needed for the execution of the order is also identified and procured.

Stock Control:

CAA provides information such as past due purchases, part due shipments to customers, out of stock items, over stock items, inventory turnover reports, vendor performance summary and shipper performance analysis. This includes the overall comparison between planned and actual inventory cost of purchase items. Based on the above information, the storage planning is made regarding the new policies to vendor’s information on new technology.

Accounting:

Computerised accounting reduces the work of an accountant by inputting the data only once. When done manually the double entry system is followed. The accounting programs in the computer automatically provide the reports like trial balance, balance sheet, sales analysis and many more reports. This relieves the accountant from the strenuous and monotonous job of calculating 4,5,6 digit numbers all though the day.

Personnel Management:

CAA aids in maintaining a digital service register, which shows all the details like joining dates training period, termination date and so on. The job profile, pay details with the revisions and performance appraisal are frequently updated

Marketing:

Marketing strategies are developed based on the data available and the market need. A includes operational control activities, scheduling of sales, promotion activities, sales details and customers details. The data on the consumers, sales, marketing personnel can be analysed using statistical tools and the same can be presented in the form of bar diagrams, pie charts and so on.

30.4.5 PPC – Definition and Functions

PPC stands for production planning and control. The production planning and control is more effective with CIM, where all the activities of the concern are computerised. The company’s top most priority is to manufacture the goods ahead of the time prescribed in the order. The production plan should cover all the activities of the concern and schedule the sequence of work without breaks and overlaps. This also includes the arranging of man, machine and resources in right time, right quantity and right quality

Design department is the basis for planning because it holds standard designs and the pattern pieces, graded patterns and marker plan. The cutting plan and the daily production plan (number of pieces of garments to be stitched) and all the related activities can be planned accordingly. The computer analyses the time of delivering the goods from the date of production. It can plan the major plans like cut planner and sewing production, and the other related works of the other department like pressing and packing. It can analyse the floor production speed and the performance against the estimate.

In the case of stock control, a computer program can be used to assess the most economic maximum and minimum quantities of materials to hold, bearing in mind the capital cost of storing, the amount of money tied up, and the heat, light and space of the buildings involved. It can also consider the probability of being able to supply a customer’s demands at any time. It is also possible to calculate the theoretical maximum and minimum batches. On a detailed plan it can take an inventory control and place orders for the necessary materials (fabric, thread, buttons etc) ahead of production

They compute the sales and examine the same with the past orders. This is the set target for the product’s sales.

Quick Response System (QR)

Marketing is based on the needs and demands of the consumer. The gap between the manufacturer and the consumer is long and sometimes longer. So the information about the acceptance of the product by the consumer to the manufacturer takes some time. If the product is rejected by the consumers in the market the delay in the information causes a huge loss. Quick response system reduces the lead time between the manufacturer and the consumer. The consumer’s acceptance or rejection immediately reaches the manufacturer and the manufacturing process is planned accordingly. The manufacturer works with the supplier (or retailer as the case maybe) and thus the lead time is reduced. The connectivity maybe done through internet or cloud computing.

Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP)

ERP is management software which has proved to be highly beneficial to the apparel industry because it yields process improvement, creates data base for all activities, reduces cost, aids in strategic planning and above all it gives the exact status of the production at the touch of the button. Decision making becomes easier at any point of time as the facts are instantaneously obtained from the ERP software.

Basically the ERP integrates all the activities of the company starting from the raw material purchase to the packing of garments. It aids in the maximum utilisation of the available resources – man, machine, material, money and time. Thanks to ERP, the breaks in between the processes are controlled and monitoring job becomes more effective.

Real Time Merchandising

Computer has now become an inherent part of apparel industry finding its way into the CAD, CAM, CIM, PPC and CAA. The marketing has become more meaningful thanks to ERP, QR and Real Time Merchandising. In real time merchandising the entire focus is on the customer. The primary aim is to give the customer what he needs and sometimes what he dreams too. For this the company uses the all the means of computer connectivity’s like desktops/laptops, mobile phones, tablets etc., The recent trend is to use cloud computing. The stock inventory remains updated. The customer’s order is customised from the existing size. For example a salwar kameez is altered to suit the customer’s body measurements. The time and place of delivery of goods calls for strategic planning. This involves skilled people, machine and the latest computer technology. This is the challenge of real time merchandising.

Conclusion

The knowledge of CAD, CAM, PPC, CAA, CIM, ERP, QR and real time merchandising clearly explains the competitive edge prevailing in the apparel industry. The Indian apparel Industry contributes a major share in the economy of India and the world at large.

Bibliography

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