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G. Bagyalakshmi

1.1. Introduction

Fashion is a force. It is a powerful force constantly altering patterns of change and growth. Its movement affects the expression of the designers and manufacturers who distribute it. Webster defines fashion as “prevailing custom, usage, or style,” and in this sense its influence all. Fashion has far-reaching effects around the world. It means the styles of clothing and associated accessories at a particular period. Fashion today is big business; millions of people are employed either in the fashion industries or in the fashion business. Fashion industries at present concentrate on wider range of merchandise categories right from baby wear to adult wear. Moreover textile and fashion related industries are mushrooming day by day and produce apparel goods, home textile materials and also accessories for men, women, and children. Hence there is a good scope for students who learn fashion and textile designing in different sections of industries. In this context, it is a prerequisite of the fashion designing students to study the terminologies, components and principles of fashion.

To familiarise with the terminologies of fashion To learn the components of fashion
To understand principles and environment of fashion

1.1.1. THE TERMINOLOGY OF FASHION

Fashion is a complex subject that fascinates the entire world. It has been a subject of study throughout history. In fashion study, there are words and phrases that are repeatedly used. They are taste, style, design, classic, high fashion, mass fashion and fad.

Fashion: Fashion is a style that is used by a group of at any one particular time. People with similar interests or taste accept a related fashion statement. For Example, College going students, adolescents, career oriented men and women.

Fashions can be classified based on the crowd to which the fashion appeals. High fashion refers to the styles or designs that are accepted by fashion leaders. These leaders are the elite among consumers who would accept new fashion readily. High fashion garments are generally introduced and sold in small quantities and at relatively high prices to socialites, entertainers, and fashion innovators. Mass fashion, or volume fashion, refers to those styles or designs that are readily accepted by the majority of people. These fashion garments are usually produced in large quantities and sold at moderate to low prices. This kind of a fashion appeals to the most of the fashion conscious consumers.

Style: A style is a distinguishing way of presenting a theme or concept in product development. It is the uniqueness or individual appearance of a garment. The details present in the garment are different from other garments. Some people adopt a style and wear it regardless of current fashion. Some garment styles are called as per the period of origin or history, from which they originated for example; Grecian, Roman, Renaissance and Empire style. The early nineteenth century garments featured a high waistline that cinched up under the bust. In todays era, designers add details to reflect the taste or needs of the consumers. The style can still be bought today, but with modifications for current fashion acceptance.

Design: A design is a specific version of a style. The skirt, for example, is a style in women’s apparel. Many variations in which the skirt is available are the gored, A-line, box-pleated, knife pleated and so on. The pant is a style. The variations in length and width constitute the various designs of the pant. Manufacturers create more number of garment designs following a popular style.

Taste: Taste can be defined as the ability to distinguish garment designs that makes an excellence for a particular period of time. This is each and every ones opinion about a popular style for a given occasion. Also the consumers are able to reject styles that are inappropriate. Therefore, good taste in fashion means an understanding of what is a creative style and suitable for a specific situation. A style may be beautiful. But if inappropriate to the particular circumstances, it may not be considered in good taste. Good taste essentially is making the most artistic use of current fashion bridging the gap between good art and common usage.

Classic: Some garment styles are considered to be in fashion over a long period of time. A classic design satisfy majority of the customers and remains in acceptance for an anticipated period of time in fashion cycle. A classic style is regarded as the simplicity of design and its existence time in fashion. Saree, salwar and kameez for example have been a classic fashioned one for many years.

Fad: Fashion that all of a sudden emerges into popularity is referred as Fad. It catches the attention of fairly few of the total consumers for a very shorter period. Later this style quickly disappears is called fad. Fads follow the fashion cycle and their rise in popularity is much faster and acceptance is much shorter. Fads can come and go in a single season. Fads are usually an exaggerated design which may not attract consumers that easily. For example net garment.

1.1.2. COMPONENTS OF FASHION

Fashion design does not happen immediately. Designers cannot dictate the consumers to adopt a new design. Fashion components like silhouette, detail, texture and colour are combined together. Combination and manipulation of one or more of fashion components gives out a new fashion.

Silhouette: Costumes overall shape is called as Silhouette. It is also referred to as contour or outline. Women wore various silhouettes over the centuries. However, only three basic forms such as straight, or tubular; bell- shaped or bouffant, bustle or back-fullness have been used frequently. The widespread sociological change and rapid technological advancements altered both the traditional life span and the sequence of these silhouettes.

Details: The individual elements that are incorporated in a silhouette are called details. Details give a shape or form to the garment. These include trimmings, skirt and pant length and widths, shoulder, waist and sleeve treatments. Variations in detail allow both the designers and consumers to present their individuality based on existing fashion. For example – emphasising details for slender woman.

Texture: Texture is the most significant components of fashion since it gives the look and feel of various material – woven or nonwoven. Texture affects the look of a silhouette. It adds bulkiness or slenderness. It influences the drape of the garment. It affects the colour of the fabric by reflecting or absorbing light. Rough texture absorbs light and smooth textures reflect light.

Colour: Colour plays a major role in clothing. Colour is an important criterion in selecting apparels for all age groups. Colour has been importantly affected by developments in technology. Colours change appearance. Today a fashion designers colour palette changes with consumers preferences.

THE INTANGIBLES OF FASHION

A style is a definite silhouette and has solid design details. But fashion is shaped by such intangibles as group acceptance, change, and the forces at work during a specific era and people’s desire to relate to certain lifestyles.

Acceptance: Group acceptance or approval is understood in any designation of fashion .An article of clothing may be innovative and aesthetically flawless; fashion has been accepted only when a large number of people prefer to use. A style may also be accepted in one geographic region and become a fashion, while the same is ignored or rejected in other places. It also means that a fashion is considered appropriate for the occasion it is worn. Clothes worn for formal occasions are not at all acceptable for casual purposes.

Change: Fashion is subject to never-ending change sometimes rapid and gradual. Women’s apparel has always shown the most rapid rate of change. Until recently, men’s fashion changed more slowly. The rate of fashion change in women’s clothing has greatly accelerated over the last century and in men’s clothing over the last forty years. The designers and manufacture work at a faster means of producing garments in greater variety of materials. In today’s era, communication plays an influential role in accelerating the rate of fashion change. The mass media spread fashion news across the phase of globe in hours and sometimes seconds.

1.1.3. PRINCIPLES OF FASHION: These provide a solid foundation for fashion identification and forecasting. The five principles listed below are the foundations of fashion study based on history of fashion, dissemination of fashion or the fashion merchandising techniques.

1 .Consumers establishes fashions by accepting or rejecting the styles offered .The consumer is the ultimate user; the person who uses the finished fashion garment is the consumer.

Consumers decide when a style no longer appeals and they determine which new styles will be favoured. Among the many styles, manufacture selects the styles suitable for the season and they believe that those styles will be successful. Retailers in turn choose styles from manufacturers. And consumers at last are the decision maker by selecting or rejecting fashion.

2.Fashions are not based on price. The price tag on an item of apparel or an accessory is no inclination whether the item is currently in fashion. Also, items that were originally introduced at high price lines if they appear to have considerable consumer appeal. Later the same style is sold at reasonable prices however the material, workmanship and trimmings may vary.

3.Fashions are revolutionary in nature; they are rarely revolutionary. Fashion designers accept this principle. When developing new design ideas, they always keep the current fashion in mind. They know that few people could or would buy a whole new wardrobe every season and that the success of their designs ultimately depends on sales. Consumers will purchase goods only if they complement their present wardrobe.

4.No amount of sales promotion can change the directions in which fashions are moving. Promotional efforts on the part of producers or retailers cannot dictate what consumers will buy, nor can it force people to buy what they do not want. The few times that fashion merchants have tried to promote a radical change in fashion, they have not been successful. Promotional effort can not renew the life of fading fashion unless it gives a new appeal. Retailers try to push the merchandise in sales at very lower prices.

5. All fashions end in excess. Eighteenth century hoop skirts ballooned out to 8 feet in diameter, which made moving even from room to room a complicated manoeuvre. Similarly miniskirts of the 1960s finally became to short that the slightest problem caused a major problem in modesty. Once the extreme in style is reached, consumers look for newer styles.

1.1.4. The Environment of fashion:

In fashion merchandising, the environment of fashion differs from one part of the target to another part of the group. Therefore it is to study about the conditions that affect a particular target customer’s environment. Following are the environmental factors that affect fashion demand;

1)Demographics and Psychographics.

2) The degree of economic development of a country or society.

3) The psychological characteristics of the class structure.

4)The psychological attitudes of customers.

1. Demoghraphics and Psychographics:

Demographics are the studies pertaining to the categorisation of broad groups of customers into smaller and also more homogeneous target segments. The variables covered in a demographic study are: population by regional, urban, suburban, and rural population; age; sex; family life cycle; race; religion; nationality; education; occupation; and income.

Psychographics are studies that widen the individual portraits of prospective customers. Psychographic studies most often predict customer purchase patterns and discriminate product users. The variables covered in a psychographic study are: personality; attitude, interests, and personal opinions; and actual product benefits desired.

2. The degree of economic development of a country or society:

Fashion demand and its growth depend on the economic development. And this has a direct relation with consumer income, population characteristics, and the extent of technological advances.

Consumer Income: Consumer income is measured in terms of personal income, disposable income, and discretionary income. Most of the people use the personal income in their particular social set. More the personal income and they are more socially acceptable.

Population: Majority of the population has some flexible income. This flexible income can influence fashion movement. Two factors relating to population have a direct impact on fashion demand. The scope of fashion demand is depended on the size of the population. While the overall population continues to grow, the growth rate is not the same for all the age groups or for both sexes. Since each group has its own special fashion interests, needs, and reactions, changes in the age mix serve as vital clues to future fashion demand.

Technological Advances:

• Improved spinning, weaving and knitting machines

• Mechanical and Modern sewing machines

• Embroidery machines

• High speed textile processing and textile testing machinaries

Agriculture: Improved agricultural techniques have resulted in more and better quality products in the areas of organic cottons.

Communications: Rapid communication has become a most important medium for transmitting fashion information. Television informs us about fashion on a national and international. Radio is an excellent medium through which local merchants can inform their audiences of special fashion events.

Transportation: Improved trucks and superhighways and the growth of the air freight enhanced the fashion business. Instead of weeks, the transportation of goods from vendor to store now takes only hours instead of days.

3) The sociological characteristics of the class structure.

Sociological Factors: Fashion changes are caused by the change of consumer’s attitude. The social patterns during different time periods also has remarkable role. The factors responsible due to this are leisure time, ethnic influences, status of women, social mobility, physical mobility, wars, disasters, and crises.

Leisure time: The ways in which people use their leisure time are varied and this has led to fashion movement. Retirement leisure travel of the people also enhanced the market for cosmetics aids and apparel that suits their ages, figures and new interests. Demand for larger and more versatile wardrobes due to much leisure time activities have increased.

Casual living: The emergence of suburbs has a direct implication on the market for casual apparel. Casual look for men and women were acceptable in most of the formal places and occasions. Casual clothing remains an option for many people at work as well at play.

Active Sports Wear: Sports minded people demand apparel that was appropriate for sports and simply for relaxing. Health clubs, exercise classes, and work out gyms are in popularity due to fitness and health consciousness of people and this has led to the demand for special outfits, suits and dresses

Status of Women : The most dramatic advances have happened since the mid- 1960’s and Women’s demand for equal opportunity, equal pay and equal rights in every facet of life have changed not only fashion but the entire field of marketing.

Education: Often the better educated women are more willing to learn new things and they are willing to try new fashions, which of course serves to accelerate fashion change.

Social Freedom: Perhaps the most marked change in the status of women in the early 1900’s is the degree of social freedom they now enjoy. Women travel more frequently than they did in the past. Today’s busy active woman, whether at home or at office, has very carefully defined preferences for fashion that suit their own individual needs and comfort.

Middle Class Growth: Most fashion authorities agree that the growth and strength of fashion demand is directly related to the growth and strength of the middle class. The middle class has the highest physical, social, and financial mobility. Because it is the largest class, it has the majority vote in the adoption of fashions. Members of the middle class tend to be followers, not leaders, of fashion, but the strength of their following pumps money into the fashion industry.

Physical Mobility: Physical mobility, like social mobility, encourages the demand for and response to fashion. The daily routine for many people involves driving to work or to a shopping centre, often in a different city. Among the broad range of influences they are exposed to different fashion during their daily trips and the fashion offerings of retail distributers. The traveller’s trip exposes them to many different fashion influences and each trip itself demands special fashion. Change of residence or moving to a new environment creates new fashion influences.

Wars, disasters and crises: Consumers have an altered attitudes and environments during special crisis. They develop a need for fashions that are compatible with the special situation. There was great demand for warm clothes, jackets, scarfs, leg warmers, vests and so on during wars and disasters.

4) The psychological attitudes of customers:

Fashion promises many things to many people. Fashion demand is depended on the basic psychological factors such as boredom, curiosity, reaction to convention, need for self assurance, and desire for companionship.

People will have a disliking for a fashion that is in use for a longer time. This attitude leads to change in fashion. This in turn creates a demand for newer styles.
Curious and fashion conscious people want to explore new colour combinations change in line, and details affect the look of a garment.
People who consider themselves as well and fashionably dressed are self assurance and carry themselves confidently. Feeling of inferiority could be overcome by proper selection and use of apparel.

Conclusion

An understanding about the nature of fashion comprising of fashion terminology, components and fashion change is essential for a designer to understand the trend. The economic, sociological and psychological factors have a direct influence in creating fashion demand. The common fashion terminologies in the fashion industry such as fashion, style, design, taste, classic and fad differentiates fashion merchandise and the fashion designers familiarise with these terminologies and work further.

you can view video on Fashion Dynamics: Terminology, Components, fashion cycle

References

Philip Kotlar and Kevin lane (2006), Marketing Management, Keller Pearson Education, Inc, Delhi.
Ellen Diamond (2006), Fashion Retailing, A Multi-Channel Approach –Second Edition, Pearson Education, Delhi.
Mike Easey (2005), Fashion Marketing – Second Edition, Black Well Publishing, Australia.
Kitty, G. Dickerson (2005), Inside the fashion business, Pearson Education, Delhi.
Dudeja, V.D., (2005), Professional Management of Fashion Industry, Gangandeep Publications, Delhi.

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