14 Basics of Pattern Making – Draping

R. Sheela John

1.1 Introduction

Garments worn by primitive men followed the draping method. Skins and leaves are draped in simpler forms for covering the body. When the art of sewing has developed the method of drafting came into existence. But the passion for the drapes is still evident among the fashion designers. Pattern making is an art as well as science. It is more of science in the method of drafting whereas it is more of art in the draping method.

1.2 Learning Outcome:

At the end of this lesson the student will learn

• The significance of preparing patterns using the draping method Body form and its parts
• Tools required for draping
• Method of draping Bodice front, bodice back, skirt front and skirt back

The pattern making methods can be broadly categorised into two – Drafting and draping. The drafting method is followed in the readymade garment industry where the garments are manufactured in bulk. This method is also seen in the men’s garments. The draping method is considered significant over drafting for the following reasons

• A skilled pattern master is required for creating garments with drafting method.
• A skilled person can imagine the 2 dimensional pattern pieces as a stitched 3 dimensional garment.
• The pattern master should have a technical knowledge about pattern drafting and its principles.
• Drafting involves mathematical calculations so it may not be easy for all and It is not suitable for garments with complicated drapes.

1.3 Draping Method

Draping is a process of creating patterns with muslin cloth on a body form. A piece of fabric is draped on the body form with positions of darts and pleats. This is done in a cheaper and thinner fabric named muslin. This method is ideal for garment styles with drapes. Interesting and beautiful drapes can be achieved through this method. If the person remains in the same size, the garments can be ordered through the phone and the dress maker will create it with the help of the dress form.

The limitation for this method is the preparation of body form for individual persons. It is costly, time consuming and a laborious process. In majority of the cases people change in sizes and hence the dress forms become useless after a period of time and again the process of making a dress form has to worked out.

1.3.1 Body forms–Body forms is a replica of a three dimensional human body without face, hands and legs. Body form comes in different sizes for child, women and men of different age groups. The body forms are padded and are mounted on a vertical stand with wheels at the bottom which helps in easy moving of the body forms. Partial body forms do not have legs while full body forms have legs. It also comes with collapsible shoulders. Body forms can be also by created for any individual size. Without brown paper drafting cannot be done and in the same way draping is not possible without body forms.

1.3.2 Tools required for Draping

The following are the list of tools required for creating draped patterns on a body form.

Style tape–This is a narrow satin ribbon which is on the body forms along the waistline, bustline and hipline. This serves as a guideline for draping the muslin pattern

L-square – this is a ruler in the shape of an ‘L’. This has measurements marked in centimetres and inches.

   Iron box and Ironing board – Ironing board has a smooth padded surface. A dry or steam iron box can be used. If a dry iron box is used the fabric is dampened with a wet cloth

Bell pins and Pin cushions – dress maker’ pins are metallic sharp pointed pins. This holds the fabric in place when the muslin pattern is draped over the body form. Pin cushion aid in easy

Measuring Tape – It is a flexible tape with measurements marked with inches on one side and centimetres on the other side.

French curves – these are set of rulers which has different shapes of curves. This can be used for correcting and redrawing the neckline and armscye curves of the pattern during the trueing process

Carbon paper – It comes in blue, black and yellow colours. It is used for transferring the markings form one material to another

Tracing Wheel – this is a toothshaped wheel which is used along with the carbon paper for transferring the markings

Muslin Fabric – The fabric used for creating patterns using draping method is muslin pattern. The muslin is a woven cotton fabric which is comparatively cheaper. It comes in varied thickness. Soft and light weight muslins can be used for an alternate to fabrics like silk, polyester etc., and thick muslins is used to duplicate woollen patterns.

1.3.3 Preparatory process for draping – It comprises of three important steps (1) identification of grainlines and (2) blocking process and (3) Pressing

(1) Identification of grainlines – Before the actual draping process the fabric is checked for the grain lines. For a fitted garment the grainlines has to be identified and placed accordingly. Selvedge is the finished edge of the fabric. Straight grain refers to the lengthwise direction of the fabric. It is parallel to the selvedge. Cross grain refers to the width wise direction of the fabric. It is perpendicular to the selvedge. Bias is any direction other than lengthwise or widthwise direction of the fabric. True bias is cut at 45 degrees. This has the maximum stretch. Cross grain has minimum stretch and straight grain has no stretch.

(2)Blocking Process – Blocking is a process of aligning the lengthwise and cross wise grains at right angles to each other. It is also a process of straightening the fabrics. The selvedges are clipped at equal intervals and the fabric is stretched in the bias directions. The fabric is folded lengthwise to see if the straight grain and the cross grain is aligned

(3) Pressing – the fabric is placed on the ironing board and ironed using an iron box. If dry iron is used the fabric is dampened using a wet cloth. Pressing is repeated till all the wrinkles in the fabric is removed

1.3.4 Draping Process

In this module, the sequence of steps in creating the basic patterns of bodice front, bodice back, skirt front and skirt back is explained

Draping of Basic Bodice Front – The bodice front pattern is created on the left side of the body form. The basic bodice front is symmetrical and hence the half of the pattern is made. This pattern has one dart along waistline. The following are sequence of steps followed in the draping process

1.      Preparing the body form

2.      Preparing the fabric

3.      Draping of fabric

4.      Trueing Process

Preparing of body form – The style tape is pinned along the bustline. The bustline is also termed as apexline. The tape is pinned in the centre front line, taken over the bust and is pinned along the left side. A tape is also pinned along the waistline. These lines serve as a reference line for draping the front pattern.

Preparing the fabric – A rectangular piece of cloth is cut with the following measurements – For lengthwise measurement, the length of the bodice front is measured from the neck to the waistline of the body form, an extra allowance of 4 inches on the top and bottom. For width wise measurement, the distance between the center front to the side of the body form along the bustline is taken. An extra allowance of 4 inches is given along the width on any one side.

Along the straightgrain, a fold for one inch is made in the lengthwise direction. This serves as the center front line. Apex line is drawn using the L-scale in the middle of the fabric perpendicular to the center front. Along the apex line the width of the sideseam is also marked.

Draping of Fabric– The following are the steps involved in creating the draped patterns One inch fold is made in the fabric lengthwise along the center front line. The fabric is positioned over the body form with by matching the center front line and the apex line.

After positioning the fabric, the fabric is pinned to the body form at the center front neck, center front waist and top of side seam.

Remove wrinkles along the neckline and pin the shoulder line.

Cut along the neckline half an inch allowance. Clip the fabric from top of the neckline to remove wrinkles along the curve.

Pin along the side seam line. The excess fabric at the waistline between the center front and sideseam is converted into a dart. This dart is positioned along the princess line.

The fabric along the armscye is smoothened and an armhole curve is marked. Similarly the waistline, shoulder line and the side seam line is marked and the excess fabric is cut leaving an allowance of half an inch.

Trueing Process – This is a process of transferring the muslin pattern outlines and shapes onto a brown paper or a dotted paper. The bodice front pattern is removed from the bodyform and is placed on the paper. The outlines of the patterns like shoulderline, neckline, centerfront line, waistline, side seam line are transferred to the paper using the carbon paper and tracing wheel. The position of the darts is marked. All the outlines are corrected and smoothened for a neat continuous line or curve. French curves are used for smoothening the curve. Seam allowances may be given at the end of the trueing process

Draping of the Basic Bodice Back

The basic bodice back pattern has a waistline dart and the steps in draping the pattern are similar to the front pattern. In the front pattern the apex line serves as a cross grain, and in the back pattern the across shoulder blade. After the completion of patterns the pattern is removed from the body form and is subjected to trueing process

Draping the Basic Skirt Front and skirt – The basic skirt front pattern has two waist line darts and the steps in preparing the patterns are the same as mentioned for the bodice front

1.      Preparing the body form

2.      Preparing the fabric

3.      Draping of fabric

4.      Trueing Process

Preparing the Body Form – Style tape is fixed along the waist line. Hipline position is also marked with the style tape. The hip is usually 7 to 9 inches from the waistline. This is also a symmetrical pattern and hence pattern is created for one half of the skirt. The hipline and the waistline will be perpendicular to the floor.

Preparing the fabric – A rectangular piece of fabric is cut with the following measurements. For the length wise measurement, place the tape on the center front linestarting from the waistline going beyond the hipline. The length of the skirt may vary according to the taste and desire of the wearer. Add 3 inches on the top and bottom of the skirt length. The width of the skirt is measured from the center front to the side along the hip line. While cutting the fabric, an extra allowance of 3 inches is given at the side. Using the L-scale ruler the hipline is marked. This also serves as a guideline for positioning the cross grain.

In the rectangular piece of fabric, fold one inch fabric at the centre front line. Lines are drawn for the side seam using the width measurement. The hipline is also drawn in the appropriate position.

Draping of Fabric – The following are the steps involved in creating the draped patterns

Place the one inch fold along the center front position the fabric in such a way that the hipline of the fabric is placed exactly over the style tape placed on the hipline of the body form.

The fabric is smoothened and pinned along the center front waistline and the side seam line.

The excess fabric along the waist is converted to two waist line darts, positioned between the princess line and the side seam line.

The waistline, side seam line and the hem line is marked neatly.

The excess material beyond the marked lines is cut leaving an allowance of half an inch.

Trueing Process – The skirt is removed from the body form and is placed flat over a paper. Using the carbon paper and the tracing wheel the markings of the center front line, waist line, side seam line and hem line is drawn. The position and the length/ width of the dartsare also marked.

The same procedure is followed for the skirt back pattern also.

Variations in the Bodice Front and Back – The following variations can be included in the pattern  Yokes can be created along the shoulder line, waistline or along the princess line. Fullness can be introduced at desired positions. For example small tucks can be placed along the princess line or slightly above the apex line. Different shapes can be given in the neckline Collars like flat collar, shirt collar and the like can be introduced along the neckline The positions of trimming and decorations can be placed in appropriate positions.

Variations in the Skirt Front and back – Following are the variations in the skirt Inclusion of Yoke at the waistline Addition of fullness like pleats, godets etc can be done easily Trimmings and decorations can be added as per the taste

Limitation of the Draping

The body forms are available in standard sizes and the individuals may not fit in these sizes. Creation of body form is a laborious process. It is also painstaking and time consuming for the individual to sit for continuous long hours during the process of creating the dress form

It is common that people either put on weight or reduce in size. Either way, the body form becomes useless.

As it involves the use of body form and as it is a time consuming process, draping is not suitable for bulk production. It can be ideal for designer wear garment styles.

Conclusion

The process of draping brings marvellous designs in the hands of a creative fashion designer. Numerous interesting styles can be created using this method. The basic knowledge in draping will definitely enable one to create varied styles.

Books

• Practical Clothing Construction – Part I-Basic Sewing Processes – Mary Mathews
• Practical Clothing Construction – Part II- Designing, Drafting and Tailoring – Mary Mathews
• Fashion Production Terms – Debbie Ann Gioello and Beverly Berke Zarapker System of cutting – Shri K R Zarapker